Archive for May, 2012
We have promised to post pictures from the show, but then we found out that Catwalking.com and Vogue.co.uk did it before us. So for a day we decided that now it is pointless… But we have changed our mind! We have hundreds of images of every garment, from every angle, from internal and press show, and we think we should share them with you. We have created a separate page which you can find just under the 1 Granary logo, the BA Show archive, the pictures will begin to appear from tomorrow there. If anyone needs them for a portfolio, feel free to use them. They were made for you, guys. Enjoy
“I left Liverpool at 18 to move to London and study at Central Saint Martins. I didn’t know anyone in the city at all, which was really isolating. I feel like I did most of my growing up at the Charing Cross Road site between the BA and MA. I knew that art college was my way to London and CSM was the best so that’s where I wanted to go. I’m really happy I met the people I did through studying there, I’m not sure how else I would have made such brilliant friends over time. The college has always been about the people who are drawn to it and the work they produce.
We did the judging at the first show which, from what I could tell, was mostly full of excitable parents. All the press came to the later catwalk in the evening. The venue is great if a little warm and there’s an excitement around, tons of students trying to get views of the catwalk from every available window above. I would imagine that most parents have never been to a fashion show and are completely unjaded, you could see the bewilderment/joy on all their faces.
The panel was made up of myself, Fashion East‘s Lulu Kennedy, Kay Barron from Harpers, designer Corrie Nielsen and for some reason Colin Firth’s wife, as well as a few people from the college and L’Oréal. It was fun, I mean you have to brace yourself a bit as graduate shows are always excruciatingly long in comparison to fashion week shows. You have to slap yourself round the face a little halfway through – for me the only killers are any collection the models can’t walk in accompanied by a miserable, achingly slow soundtrack. That’s no fun for anyone, nor dramatic enough to captivate.
You want to be completely open to what they’re offering. It’s exciting to see sort-of rough work and how emotional it all is for them, you can feel it in the collections. I suppose I wanted something that was exciting and bold but not gimmicky or rehearsed – there were years when all the CSM shows had too many late 80s club references, thankfully that has moved on. Also these are only 41 of the 130 design students in the year, I’m sure personally there would have been a lot in the no pile that I would have been into.
I don’t have any connection to the new building apart from a few people like Professor Louise Wilson and her team. I still think it’s a shame they had to move to Kings Cross and sell Charing Cross Road but the show was good, so maybe its better for the students to not have all those ghosts of old work surround them, they are finally liberated.
The first four out I thought were all incredible, felt really new for CSM and very well done: Erin Hawkes, Luke Stevens, Sarah Simkins and Alan Lee. I could have watched hours of work of that standard, it’s hard to say what it was but it all had a spark and a bravery and the make and fit was really considered. They could all get great jobs or do their own thing really well. Also Molly Goddard’s knit dresses with tulle overlays were great, and Natalia Mencej’s glittery Snoop boys and pugs. Isabella Newell was also a favourite of Lulu and Kay”.
Text: Christopher Shannon for Dazed Digital
On 29th of May, BA Fashion graduates of Central Saint Martins have presented their final collections on the catwalk of a brand new King’s Cross 1Granary campus. The catwalk opposite a rough brick wall is a start for great careers in modern fashion industry and a temporary end of sleepless nights in the studios. High-tech fabrics, reinvented street wear, cleverly constructed shapes, sparkles and clarity of white. We loved it!
Central Saint Martins new 1Granary building at King’s Cross is an impressive architectural construction; solid and spacious as a temple, built with dark bricks and polished glass, it gives an impression of a modern urban beauty and provides perfect space to house and exhibit new fashion talents.
CMS students had a chance to see the BA graduate fashion show (at 15.oo pm) before the press and specially invited guests arrived for the second show run (at 19.oo pm), which took place in a spacious hall, flooded with a bright day light. All the seats were taken and several dozens of students were also watching the show through the wide library windows high above.
All together we saw 41 collections by graduates who studied on the Womenswear, Menswear, Fashion Print, Fashion Knit and Fashion Design with Marketing pathways. Young designers performed magic; showing unbelievable shapes, textures and fabric manipulations, volumes and structure. Also, forget black! It was all about white and unexpected combinations of textures and colours. Deconstruction of tradition and history. Reinvention of high streets’ tomorrow. Trend setting. Raw creativity. CMS style.
We love them all! But we chose nine students who impressed us with their fantastic designs, concept, innovative techniques, beautifully made pieces, unexpected ideas and striking vision, aimed straight into the future.
Erin Hawkes, accompanied by Missy Elliot’s Pass that Dutch soundtrack, has showed all some fun; catholic nuns inspired collection, where she used ivory crispy silk for skirts and curiously floppy head pieces. The hip-hop and sportswear styles were visible influences in the collection’s silhouette, which were transformed beautifully. Dark denims, thick wool with large check patterns, luxurious duchess silks and sportswear cottons were the fabrics used. Erin has impressed us with her skill of working with volume and shape, making the over sized garments look elegant and fun.
Luke Stevens has turned fashion inside out to reveal our scruffy secrets. Fake nudity of beige fabric, ugly white underwear, huge labels with washing instructions. His collection is cleverly constructed, well balanced and it graced the catwalk amazingly styled.
Tigran Avetisyan‘s collection had “too cool for school” rebellious vibe. Jackets covered with thick layer of black paint, imitating school chalk boards. Bold and a bit grotesque expressive tailoring. Simple, yet genius.
C.J. Yao‘s collection had very architectural shapes, very sophisticated. She used shades of grey, wood and ropes. Transformed Asian traditions and elegant tribal look. Impressive work, extremely brave and out there.
Lucas Leclere‘s collection was full of stunning pieces with amazing textures and thought through trims. Reworked; one texture merging into another, ripped lace, shiny metallic jacquard, plastic heavily painted with oil paints as a painting, printed silks and rich jacquard were put together in a beautiful and theatrical way. The models walked sharp to the music of Rameau remixed by Jerry Bouthier.
Maia Bergman used an innovative technology to turn simple fabrics into a sparkling miracle! So much of kind glitter and gentle colour. It was hard to believe that small and sparkly beads are attached to the fabric with no magic, but human hands. The simple cut and minimalistic silhouettes looked modern. Her collection, as it progressed, has told the story of a school girl becoming a sexy woman. Maia lovingly has named each look; one of her dresses is called Donatella Versace.
Serena Gili’s pieces were close to sacred objects of art or religion. Inspired by the uniforms of nuns, Serena has created one single silhouette, but the richness and variation of the textures, techniques, patterns and materials used is absolutely gorgeous. Plastic skirts, shaped as bells or a modern vision of the 18th century court skirts, which were especially molded by a ship building company in France, and stunning knitted tops, beautifully put together with delicate yarns, golden metallic pieces and bright salad green plastic beads, looked so serene as the opera music filled the space. Balance, precision, splendor.
Natalija Mencej made a strong statement. Her beautiful, knitted and glittering collection was modeled by gorgeous guys with attitudes with gangster pugs under their arms, while Snoop Dogg and Dr. Dre’s “Smoke weed everyday” beat did the beat. Over sized pieces was Natalija’s way of expressing her fascination by street wear and hip hop culture and it’s definition of luxury. Made in candy colors and sparkling from head to toe. Swag, right?
Words by Anastasiia Fedorova and Altynai Osmoeva
Images via Catwalking.com, collages by 1Granary