For his FW15 collection, Lee Roach took an approach perhaps not too familiar at present-day to the industry at large. Whereas some shows were thrown on bare runways with the odd hiphop tune, Lee worked with artist collective The Butchers and composer/DJ Alexi Delano, to explore ideas of the ‘inverse’ together. Surprising part about this — and admirable — is that each creative aspect of the collaboration had as much importance in the project as the other.
What did the team cook up ‘inverse-wise’? Reverse. Most of this season’s garments can be worn inside-out, and out-side in, which is great for men who were planning to take a ‘buy now, skip two seasons’ approach to buying new clothes, or simply for the ease of not having to go home and change after a night out.
The show itself was spot-on, and with ‘spot-on’, that’s quite literal: The Butchers made an art installation in the background that looked like a cube-shaped light system. When the main lights on the ceiling were switched off, the runway looked rather like the end scene of The Sound of Music, when the Von Trapp family had to flee from the music hall, and spotlights tried to trace them. The models — with impeccable hair — didn’t run off the runway, however, but the music might’ve easily made them: Alexi Delano composed a pretty harrowing soundtrack that made the whole event rather eerie.
The clothes themselves fit in completely in the whole music/art setting, and did make Lee’s universe more fluent and ‘complete’ for even the short duration of the show. If there is one thing we can take from Lee’s FW15 collection, is that collaboration between different disciplines seems to be the way forward to refining your own language as a young designer setting foot in an already heavily packed industry. We’re excited to see not only recent graduates follow his lead, but hey, Michael Kors?
Photography by Jorinde Croese