Marques’Almeida’s Spring Summer presentation was filled with groupies: a staggering number of girls sported the designer duo’s signature denim dresses and platform shoes. Staying true to their loyal following they expanded on their celebrated rebellious aesthetic to offer a lighter and breezier look than their previous collections. “We wanted it to feel really flowing and light,” Portuguese-born Central Saint Martins alum Paulo Almeida told 1GRANARY.

They experimented with new shapes, textiles and colours to produce soft and feminine feeling diaphanous dresses, sheer skirts, light-weight knits and denim separates. Their signature grunge-aesthetic was still felt but Marta Marques explained: “we looked more at the late 90s and early noughties grunge and urban style, as well as what I would wear back in the day when I was going on a night out. Like, spaghetti dresses and cargo pants in a cleaner and fresher colour palate.”

Moving away from a strictly denim collection they added applique flowers and more colour:  lilac, bright-white, navy and green. Their soft tactile knits were true to their oversized and relaxed style, as did their play with chiffon fur adornment to flowing jackets. Marques’Almedia’s homage to their youth may have been their most girly collection yet but it remained true to their understated and undeniably cool core.

Text: Lucy Morris