Not one to stay behind trends, this coming NYFW, V-Files Made fashion show has been cast solely by the internet, including models, photographers, designers, stylists all drawn in from the realms of Instagram and Twitter. As the V-Files MADE show will be tonight, we shine the spotlight on designers that have shown with them in the past three seasons.
Who – Tigran Avetisyan
What – Tigran, Moscow based eponymous menswear designer label.
Where – From Saint Petersburg, Russia. Graduated from CSM.
USP – Ideas take precedence over design. Use of typography in his work to communicate ideas, with chalk and paint. Strong political statement in designs, whether it’s about the economy in his S/S 14 and A/W 14 collections with ‘NO JOBS’ splashed over casual norm core designs, or the hedonistic culture of consumerism in S/S 15 that is inspired from duty-free fragrances.
Claim to fame – Showed at LCM A/W 2014. Graduate collection sponsored by LVMH. Mentions in Vogue, and BoF. Has collaborated with SHOWStudio in 2014.
Trivia – One of his most iconic captions on his garments ‘Graduate 2012 – Nothing more to say’ came about in a bit of a last minute panic attack backstage at his graduate fashion show for CSM. The paint was still wet as the model walked out.
Who – Dasha Selyanova
What – ZDDZ, London based fashion womenswear label started in 2011.
Where – From Saint Petersburg, Russia. Graduated from CSM.
USP – Wearable designs that make political statements. Catchy slogans such as ‘Fragile’ and ‘Open here’ on the crotch seek to provoke, while the overall aesthetic is clean. Like Tigran, Dasha’s designs are heavily dominated by logos.
Claim to fame – Featured in editorial in Vogue Italia, Vogue Russia. One of Buro 24/7’s Russian designers to watch for 2015.
Trivia – Tigran and Dasha both echo the message of the politically doomed Russian with their designs echoing the same. Dasha uses words emblazoned on her garments and wraps them up in a way that bad fruit packaging looks, to show that political messages and promises don’t carry any meaning.
Who – HyeGin HAMM
What – No label yet. New York based menswear designer fresh out of fashion school.
Where – Korean-American based in New York. Graduated from Parsons 2014.
USP – Think denims. Lots and lots of it. Seamlessly blending Korean craftsmanship and aesthetic and casual American fashion with hand-washed and treated denim. Korean monk meets Jerry Seinfeld.
Claim to fame – The V-Files NYFW S/S 15 show was HyeGin’s debut show and she is already being hailed as the next big thing by WGSN, Gentleman’s Daily and MTV. Finalist for Parsons and Kering’s ‘Empowering Imagination’ competition.
Trivia – Denim used in HAMM’s collection was hand treated with stone-washing and bleaching to achieve an ombre effect.
Who – Kazuma Detto, and company (Dettok)
What – D.TT.K, Tokyo based menswear street style label.
Where – Started in Tokyo by underground street artists that go by Dettok.
USP – It is not a label, rather a lifestyle. Street style heavily influenced by the underground music scene. The aesthetic is neo-sporty. Chest protection wear worn as outerwear, metallic shorts, graphic print tees, cutouts and metallic panels are featured heavily in their designs. Cut-outs and metallic panels on garments are created by an iPhone app.
Claim to fame – Stockist include Opening Ceremony, Wildstyle LA and Fake Tokyo.
Trivia – For their VFiles Made Fashion show for S/S 15, D.TT.K designed a suit made out of cork.
Who – Melitta Baumeister
What – Melitta Baumeister, New York based eponymous womenswear label.
Where – Born in Germany, now living in New York. Graduated from Parsons MFA.
USP – Her clothes are very innovative, as she finds new ways to use technique in the creation of her garments. Baumeister uses silicones, and heavily to give her garments structure. She approaches clothing the way a sculptor would approach his art. Mad-scientist meets designer. Her overall aesthetic is clean and monochromatic, with moulding and structuring that create silhouettes that stand out.
Claim to fame – Clientele includes Rihanna and Lady Gaga. Dover Street Market, an underground store renowned for carrying the likes of Comme de Garçons, carries her designs.
Trivia – A 3D banana on a jumper was created by dipping a banana into liquids to crystallise it.
Who – Sarah Schofield and Agatha Kowalewski
What – ASSK, Paris-based unisex fashion label founded in 2012.
Where – Born in Australia, the duo now lives in Paris.
USP – Heavily influenced by subcultures and tribes from all over the world, owing to their widespread travels. Their different interests makes the brand more approachable as Sarah is more influenced by luxury while Agatha loves sporty street style labels. Think oversized, heavily patterned and graphic. They collaborated with artist Oliver Van Der Lugt to create a unique camouflage pattern.
Claim to fame – Mentions on Style.com, Hypebeast. Their collection went viral on tumblr after their V-files made for fashion show, and has since amassed a cult following.
Trivia – Their A/W 2014 collection was inspired by “preppers” preparing for an apocalypse.
Who – Hyein Seo
What – Hyein Seo, Antwerp based womenswear label.
Where – Born in South Korea. Graduated from Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Antwerp
USP – Influenced by teenage movies, street culture, horror films and school uniforms. Traditional clothes with an unexpected edge, such as blazers with ‘spoiled’ on the sleeve and ‘school ruined my life’ emblazoned on the back, trousers with doll figurines sewn into them.
Claim to fame – British Fashion Council’s Emerging Talent Award for Best Designer. Counts Rihanna and G-Dragon among clientele.
Trivia – Nicole Maria Winkler, London based photographer whose client lists boasts the likes of Hussein Chalayan and Vivienne Westwood, recently did an editorial with Seo.
Who – Eric Schlösberg and Elizabeth Ammerman
What – Ammerman Schlösberg, New York based womenswear label
Where – New York. Eric was in Parsons, while Elizabeth went to Pratt and they met in New York.
USP – Inspirations include Paris Hilton, reality TV, South Park, Lolita-esque costumes, video games, and tarot cards. The duo are pioneers of luxury cosplay. Think nipple baring maids uniforms, satin ribbons, baby-dolls, crop tops and suspenders. Shannon Elinor Smith from Opening Ceremony describes their aesthetic as “tooth decay from eating too much candy, sugary sweet with a hint of sadomasochism.”
Claim to fame – Editorials in Vogue and Purple magazines. Occasionally spotted on Hollywood celebrities.
Trivia – Eric Schlösberg was kicked out of Parsons.
Who – Rio Uribe and Jerome Williams
What – Gypsy Sport, New York based cult street wear brand
Where – California born, New York based.
USP – Their hats are a cult favourite among New York club kids. They first found success with nets fashioned out of basketball nets and karate belts. Hats is an area they continue to innovate in. New York being the brimming pot of culture as it is, the city is Uribe’s muse. Aboriginal necklaces, Indian khaki, saris disguised as shorts, and rags feature constantly in their collections.
Claim to fame – Winner of first ever V-Files Made Fashion in 2013. Has collaborated with Opening Ceremony, DKNY, Coogi and The Hunger Games motion picture series. Their iconic hats are frequently spotted on Rihanna, Travis Scott, Rita Ora and A$AP Ferg.
Trivia – Gypsy Sport is a sport that has no clear rules or equipment. Games you would make up if you lacked money to buy equipment. Uribe chose this name as he felt it reflected the design philosophy of the brand – taking generic stuff, and remixing it.
Who – Steven Tai
What – Steven Tai, London based womenswear label. Founded in 2012.
Where – From Vancouver, Canada. Tai is currently based in London.
USP – Slouchy silhouettes worn as “awkward armour” but in pastels. His love of books, and his self-confessed nerd status is evident in his collection in terms of silhouettes that remain loose, and his extensive use of collars.
Claim to fame – His graduate collection at CSM won him €15000 from Chloé. Winner of Milan’s white Tradeshow. He was also chosen by Dazed’s Cathy Edwards to be part of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Boradcasting for emerging fashion, filmmaking and culture.
Trivia – Tai fashioned a mechanical dress made of 795 pen nibs mounted on tiny motors.
Who – Samuel McWilliams
What – Sam MC London is a unisex label established in 2012.
Where – MC hails from London, with a brief stint in Paris.
USP – Prints and floral patterns teamed with loose silhouettes. Loud Anglo-Asian graphics that find roots in anything from the big bad wolf in the red riding hood to anime. Claim to fame – Cult followers of the brand include Korean pop band 2NE1, and Canadian singer Justin Bieber.
Trivia – Before starting his own label, McWilliams has worked with Givenchy, Kanye West and Virgil Abloh.
IMAGES SOURCE: THE INTERNET