“One of Louise’s famous quotations – or rather, her ‘quotable quotations’ – was something like, “Students can be a real pain, but it’s always a privilege to be amongst youth.” And I’m sure that after this evening’s show, you’ll share that privilege, and you will see the future of fashion burning very brightly again. ” Jeremy Till closed the BA show with these words, before announcing the L’Oreal competition winners, Gracie Wales-Bonner, Asai Andrew Ta and Fiona O’Neill. We have definitely been surprised by the graduates, haven’t you? In case you missed it… we’ve written down some punch-lines and took some more snaps.
“I’m so fancy” blasts out of the speakers. Big white hats give a witchi-ness to the collection – just in time for Disney’s Maleficent. Nipped-in waists, cropped peplum jackets and shiny fabrics is the drill.
Asai Andrew Ta
Shiny shoes and over-locking genius, with “who fits the shoe…” emphasized by making each shoe different and completely unique. Thigh high, flaming, golden details and florals. It was like Christmas.
“Good times” as soundtrack, and good times in the show. A+ for the array of printing, silk and styling. Our favourite; his printed ties.
When Crystal Waters’ Gypsy Woman is the show soundtrack you can just lean back and relax. Lilac knits with silver paint, open fold skirts, embellishments on the skirts and coats and elegant floor length dresses.
“20 dollars in my pocket,” Ashley’s show-tune resembles what many student are left with after the final collections. We imagine a cute librarian who’s dived into glitter sweaters and runs from book to book in her customized trainers, with a large floral cardigan that nonchalantly hangs off-shoulder whilst she reaches for the top shelf of literature.
We can see Lauren’s tailored monocolour ensembles (green, coral, blue, white) with big pockets at Marni and Carven. Sleeves that widened at the bottom, clean lines, white sandals, corduroy and a sleek neckline: elegance CSM style.
If only we could stop talking about the hat sacks… Imagine rolling up in these soft jackets, long sleeved salmon dresses: we would be happy.
Sleek, feminine pastels for the luxurious woman who travels – hanging tags as accessories are included. A little flare here and there – revealing some flesh – crop tops and a sheer chunky knit for those who will set off on a cruise soon. Label-suggestion for the collection: ‘post-noughty romanticism’?
Suede in big shapes, outstanding use of red, gold, blue gathered garments. The big white collars added an extra dimension to the good mixes of color.
Beat! Black! White! Chu makes a great use of menswear suiting fabrics with pinstripe; Black glass organza, elegant tomboy styling with a dash of blue and great pleating.
Cool girls are back in town: red denim jackets, silk bandanas, boots, a dress with serpents (half transparent on top, we like) and sheer organza with bright stitching which will catch a lot of looks on a hot summer’s day in London’s tube.
“Oogum Boogum,” played and the tone was set: laidback, a slightly chilly summer’s day at the beach (white hats, very wide blue trousers), then a fancy dinner party (silks! prints!) We loved the bathing robe-style jacket printed with a stretched out face eating a red fish.
Structured black garments, flashes of color and flowers (we overheard somebody whispering “Miu Miu” twice), then a grand surprise: massive hoops underneath skirts with even more embellishments.
Sparkle again – a recurring theme. Layering, long trains, unisex, sweet little plastic bags and a sci-fi glitz. If anybody’s planning to make a sci-fi fashion film, don’t forget to give Ayaka a call.
Roy Orbinson’s ‘In Dreams’ plays and reminds immediately of Blue Velvet – and that’s exactly the fabric Emma used so well. Clay, burgundy and navy, draped in different ways, showing a little skin every once in a while and keeping it cool with sneakers.
When a sweaty runner opens the show on the song ‘love is in the air,’ you win over the crowd. Hyon’s collection was sportswear with flair – big stiff trousers – accompanied by blue, slick hair. Well-constructed garments, sweaty models, bathing robes, spray painted logos on the legs, long gloves and large leather messenger bags. We’re ready to run.
Sexy corduroy – it exists. The models carried staff ID cards, the music was groovy, fabrics were metallic, shapes provocative and colors outstanding. We know the theme for one of our next parties…
Dramatic suspense in music before models walk out. Metallic silver coat- and jackets, blue suiting, and crinkled leather coat. Styled with batman-like sunglasses – we can actually imagine this would be his ‘undercover’-wear.
Roman, the Golden boy. The collection balances beautifully between McQueen’s 1993 ‘Nihilism’ collection and his 1997 collection for Givenchy. All is gold, shiny and sparkly. The leg details, wooden and metal plates, remind of gladiators; Many strings, a hint of painted organza.
Sparkle, sequin, massive dresses, fairytale dresses. Flowers come out of bustiers, flowers are painted on fabrics, and flowers are carried in arms. The shoes are a feast: blue furs, glitters, all are different. The dresses are contrasting themselves – half yellow/half blue stripe: brilliant.
Denim – massive floppy hats in pink, “California girls” for a very feminine menswear collection that shows skin in J.W. Anderson style – the muscles made it all the more masculine.
These dresses may very well end up at an exhibition; there is a beautiful balance between art and fashion, with bold brushstrokes and sculptural lines. The pastel-coloured dresses have a slight wet look – not out place with our tropical climate (read: London’s May monsoons).
It’s a trip back to the craziness of childhood. Blankets wrapped around, pillows attached to fabrics, soft pastels, stuffed toy animals, slippers with pompoms, models on socks, models in bathing robes, models in large embossed canary yellow dresses.
The music kicked off with such a laidback vibe, we wished for an instant cocktail to sip on whilst seeing the retro vibe collection with sweet-coloured mohair jackets and slouch trousers, dazzling black trousers with stones, flare- and straight leg denim with ruffles at the edges, rope sandals and straw hats. Outstanding casting!
Harry made us dream about being in Versailles (not with Kanye and Kim) and fooling around with jokers, living inside Alice In Wonderland playing cards and roaming the marble hallways in his structured skirts, tiptoed in little white satin shoes with stones.
Slouchy, shiny, a beautiful lapel, pinstripe pyjamas, red silks and floral details. He pulled a little J.W. (Anderson) with the sleeveless jacket and made us crave for mornings in the final look: a floor length red silk jacket which we – of course – would love to wear as a dressing gown.
There were so many exciting fabrics and colors going on in the collection that we’ll give a quick recap: flowers in both wool and plastic, massive skirts, massive pleats. The skirts had little tassels and pieces of wood attached which made sound as the models walked.
This is what we have always dreamt of seeing in superhero movies, but have never gotten. A very charming delicacy with a kick-ass strength to it; Many pleats, sculptural arms, heelless Daphne Guinness shoes and a neutral color palette.
An interlacing tribe-vibe with a fancy castanet-click from the shoes, volume and tassels – the color palette (browns, blues, yellows) keep it down-to-‘earth’, contrasting with the high level of skill. We tried to count the exact amount of colors in this intergalactic collection, but ran out of time.
High belts in tailored judo-style white suits for summer, green sneakers that will walk through Hyde Park and shorts that Marc Jacobs may want to wear: our take on Daniele’s collection. With Trager Delaney in your fan-base, you can’t go wrong.
“Loving you” plays and we are back in the garden with Eve – quite literally, as the foamy flesh-colored costumes resemble a female body. There are feathers, roses, glass organza and chiffon. Femininity, elegance: Charlotte, you nailed it.
If we called anything theatrical during this show, we may have to find a new word for this collection, as it exceeded just that. Oh what a show we got. Use of jute fabrics, foams on shoes (resembles wooden blocks), umbrellas, massive skirts that remind of 2003 Dior – insanity in all the best ways.
Just in time for the Kimye wedding? Or V&A bridal wear exhibition? Kanye’s ‘Gold digger’ revived the energy in the room and so did the flashing lights – emphasizing the insane amount of stones. A scarification-inspiration leather jacket, ripped jersey, a skirt with dozens of ruffles, a satin bomber, and, to freak out the crowd: an illusionary feather headpiece that made the model’s arms disappear…
‘Inhaler’ by Foals turns on and the energy transformed yet again. More sparkle and an intense collection. The first model rolls in a wooden trunk with little ornaments. There are massive floating silk trains. The chunky knit beanies have flowers on top, glitter, boxes, many muted colors. There is so much to see – we’d wish for another press show.
Beards! Skirts! Patchwork, cropped jackets with cinched waists (New Look for men) and soft colors. One of the best castings from the show – we even got to enjoy a little tap dance show.
A minimalist collection Raf Simons could be proud of. Clean shapes, elegant white belts that gather the fabric at the back of the coats, shine, visible buttons and a shade of blue that made us think: Yves Klein? Who is that?
The accessories – mainly the very long earrings – were in tune with the sci-fi sky blue wet-look top, and flare trousers that share a Pugh aesthetic. We predict that the red leather walk-in dress will soon hang in somebody’s walk-in wardrobe.
The good beats continued with an eye on cultural heritage, which got the audience popping their heads up and down. A modern take on traditional Indian dressing, in shiny fabrics with many colors: grey, gold, fuchsia, blue, green and pink: a feast for both eye and ear.
The quietness of Charlotte’s work may have been contrasting with the theatricality of the show she gave. Quilted blue velvet, denim- and chiffon patchworks with greys and pinks, monocles, ruffles, top hats and soft espadrilles.
Though the screaming music may have given a different impression, we found solitude in Kiko’s woven floor-length garments – a meditation and easiness.
Have a look backstage and find out what Alex Fury thought of the show; Grayson Perry’s take on show soundtracks and what excites Imran Ahmed.
Photography by Rachel Hardwick and Leo di Cera