All posts tagged Kirill Kuletski
‘A Michael Clarke disco girl’. That’s who Saunders would like to see wearing his SS13 collection. Arty, fierce and cool with unkempt hair and just the right amount of shimmer. Or, in the case of Saunders collection, high shine metallics.
His garments, with their chic polka dots, satin sheen and just the right amount of bare skin, are perfect for this muse. Full of optical illusions, colour, frivolity – at least from the front. The subtle sexuality of the catwalk model as she prowled down the runway came to an abrupt end as she turned to retreat backstage. What viewed one way was fun and flirty, when viewed another was a dramatic and unyielding matte black.
Saunders himself admits, ‘This is the hardest collection I’ve ever done’ and perhaps this evident split-personality in his clothes is the result. Too many inspirations. Too many ideas. The result? A lot of colour. An unusual variation of garments. One gorgeous collection.
Text: Zoe Dickens
Photography: Kirill Kuletski
‘Colours that make you feel a bit sick.’ That is how Central Saint Martins golden boy graduate, Christopher Kane, described the palette for his Spring/Summer 2013 collection. Of course, Kane’s signature style is not in a particular garment, fabric or print but rather in the way he subtly undermines and subverts the at-a-glance appearance of his collections.
Ranging from pristine white, to candy coloured stripes and delicate lace, on the surface this collection seems to be the epitome of feminine elegance. But look a little closer. Isn’t that white a little too white? Isn’t it almost eerie in its blankness? Aren’t those candy coloured pastels a little too sheer? And why are they fastened with plastic bolts? Doesn’t the lace in fact form the shape of a vampire bat?
Well, the answer is ‘yes’ because for SS13 Kane was inspired by classic horror films (check out the not-so-subtle appearance of Frankenstein’s monster). What appears to be black gaffer tape holds pieces of suggestively placed lace to saccharine shades of organza in a recreation of the decayed elegance of the haunted house and dazzling bejewelled insects climb sleeves and shirt fronts. Beautiful but sinister – in the world of Christopher
Text: Zoe Dickens
Photography: Kirill Kuletski
Yesterday, 1Granary met Felipe Rojas Llanos at his North London Art Trader Studio where the hot menswear designer, who graduated from the MA Fashion in 2010, creates his sheer and luminous clothes to make men irresistible!
1Granary would like to thank Felipe for letting us play around in his studio and shoot his beautiful designs, as well as for an insightful and fun interview, see below.
1G: How was your BA Menswear course? What you enjoyed the most?
F: The first year I enjoyed very much; it was fun and experimental. The second year I hated because it felt completely unstructured, so I felt lost. The year out allowed me to find myself. It was really important and I came back with more understanding; it taught me how a dress is made; there is no panic because you know the time scale of what you must do to equal the production. That is why I think a lot of the collections of final year students who gone out (internship year) and came back (to CSM) are stronger in delivering a collection instead of a few garments. Finally, the third year was the most important.
1G: CSM is known for it’s unconventional approach. Did it suit you?
F: It is very independent; everyone does whatever they like! It was beneficial for me personally because I take my own initiative. If it wasn’t for that, I would not have learnt to sew or lots of other things. I didn’t have seamstresses, so I worked towards the deadline alone. By experimenting and making a lot of errors you learn more. I think it’s good the way that CSM teaches the opposite to LCF. The MA is tougher than the BA. The two courses have a completely different approach into individual development; the MA is more of a ‘let him float and we’ll see if he learn to swim or drowns.’
1Granary gleefully presents Grayson Perry Project, especially shot for I-D Online.
Central Saint Martins’ 2nd year Fashion Print students, for the eighth consecutive year, had the joy of upgrading the wondrous wardrobe of Britain’s most celebrated artist, teddy-loving transvestite and University of the Arts Governor – Grayson Perry. The project started in 2004 when “Claire” – Grayson’s inner girl, went for shopping and run into Natalie Gibson – our beloved print tutor and lover of all pink, on the bus.
As you all know by now, I-D has published the backstage photoshoot of the Final Graduate Show by 1Granary. We are proud and honoured. And would like to present to your attention the FULL photoshoot.
Photographer: Kirill Kuletski
Art direction: Olga Kuryshchuk
Assistant Stylist: Becca Deakins