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Marques’Almeida a/w 2013

London’s hottest denim whizz-kids, Martha Marques and Paulo Almeida, are back and thanks to the wonderful people over at NEWGEN and Topshop we were treated to their beautiful show in the Portico Rooms at Somerset House on Saturday. For Autumn/Winter 2013 the frayed hem was the order of the day. Never ones to shy away from double (or even triple) denim, entire looks came without a single neatly finished hem and a new answer was presented to the problem of lengthy trousers – simply rip a few inches on the inside leg. Rolling your jeans up is so passé darling…

This season the design duo also broadened their horizons. Although denim still remains the true love of their design lives, and came in a delectable shade of deep indigo, the pair demonstrated that their particular brand of nonchalant cool works just as well in silk, ponyskin and cotton. The undisputed stars of this collection were the voluminous elasticated waist trousers in saturated jewel tones. Given the frayed hem treatment and topped with super-luxe ponyskin jackets, they spoke of the kind of nonchalant, effortless cool that most of us can only dream of. Fresh and with an easy sophistication, there is a lot to love in this collection – expect to see it crowding the street chic galleries of fashion website the world over in no time.

Get your design featured in a SHOWstudio film!

Central Saint Martins alumni and London design favourite Giles Deacon has teamed up with the wonderful SHOWstudio to give budding fashion designers the chance to try their hand at one of his designs and win a unique opportunity to have their design featured in an exclusive fashion film with SHOWstudio! All you have to do is download Giles’ pattern for his ’Troubadour’ dress, add your own unique slant to it and upload it to the submissions gallery before March 15th 2013. Follow the link to the project now: http://showstudio.com/project/design_download_giles_deacon!

Michelle Lowe-Holder

Michelle Lowe-Holder is one of the CSM kids back from the 90’s. She has graduated with an MA in Knitwear and has been creating innovative accessories collections under hew own label ever since. Browns, Topshop and over other 100 boutiques worldwide had sold her hand made designs. 1Granary had a pleasure to interview Michelle where she spoke of her story, how she got into MA and most amazingly, how she asked Louise Wilson for a cigarette while the later was about to decide her future. No more, read it for yourself!

What is your name?

Michelle Lowe-Holder

CSM kid is…picked, prodded and prized!

You were one of those kids, when attended MA in 1999. Please tell us about your time in CSM. How it was then? And what is your most cherished memory?

I interviewed with Louise Wilson for CSM Masters Program while over from a job in NYC where I was working and living at the time. I went straight from the airport with my suitcase and portfolio to the scruffy hallways of Tottenham Court Road’s Charring Cross campus. Nervous and waiting – my name was finally called to go into the infamous office.

It felt like a set for a fashion film – Louise & co., barely visible through the thick smoke, were wearing long black, with long dark hair, heaps of silver jewellery, all red lipstick, powdered skin and cigarettes –a glamorous gothic dream team!

I had not yet heard the legendary stories of Louise and her controversial verbal accolades… so, I walked in and asked her for a cigarette much to her surprise! She was actually very kind to me and told me to go outside after the interview while they discussed my future. She said since I was already working that she would…with respect – tell me on the spot, so as not to waste my time.

I patiently waited outside for my name to be called and walked hesitantly back into the smoky office to be told, “Yes – accepted.” I was over the moon – happy. It had always been a huge dream of mine to go to CSM for the Masters Program.

Many current MA students describe their experience in college as very “painful”, was it like that then as well? 

It was extremely “painful” – I had worked before in the industry and it is always hard to go back to “student” status after receiving a salary!

Do you ever come to visit college or tutors?   

I recently came to see the CSM graduate static shows, and was invited to see a lecture on “Science and Design”. I think the new building is beautiful and so very, very different to our CSM experience!

In 2009 LCF’s Center for Sustainble Fashion has invited you to a year long mentoring program. Tell us more about it.

Yes, I was mentored by LCF Centre of Sustainability in 2009/10 for a year and re-evaluated my design process and collections during this time. Recently LCF and CFS invited designers Christopher Raeburn, Matthew Miller, Alina Moat and myself to be involved in the NIKE “Materials Sustainability Index “ Makers Challenge project. Nike has been developing an app which measures and evaluates thousands of materials “carbon footprint” and “environmental impact” which is being tested and used by teams of chosen LCF students. We are currently mentoring these teams with the design brief set by Nike. It is a really exciting project and I feel honoured to be involved.

I have also been working with Istituti Marangoni for 5 years now and currently lecture on textiles and sustainable fashion. This is a very different experience but one I really enjoy and feel lucky to be a part of.

Describe your favourite collection ever created.    

Always the next one!

In recent years, you have changed your design direction onto the path to sustainability… What are your plans of developing your creativity? Any desire to come back to fashion design? Was it something particular why you decided to stop designing clothes and be a full time jewellery designer?                                                                                                               

I love making accessories and would like to expand this range – at the moment, I am happy to move slowly and steadily. All my pieces are hand-made and production is difficult, so my creativity is constantly challenged on many levels.

What is your design process like? What is a starting point for you?                                                                                                                 

I always start with materials/textile design or manipulation – I do not draw or sketch. We make prototypes in my studio and work outwards from that point. The process is organic and the materials reaction, look and aesthetic create the direction for the collection. Each collection grows from the past ideas and designs – and eases forward. Accessories lend themselves to this evolution and are quite different from clothing design.

Maia Bergman at Vauxhal Fashion Scout

1Granary is super excited to announce that MAIA BERGMAN is now officially the first designer whom we represent! She is a real star and we are over the moon!!!

The girl just came back from Argentina; she had several shows and shot a cover for the September Issue of Harper’s Bazaar Argentina with Tati Cotliar, a friend, photographed by Battellini.

While she was away, here in London Maia’s collection was requested by Dazed&Confused for the October Issue, Another, I-D, Revs Magazine and Wonderland to name just a few. MAC Cosmetics had picked one look for the 2013 campaign styled by Nicola Formichetti and any garments available were wanted for “shocking” Girls Aloud reunion! So keep your eyes peeled for Maia’s hot pieces on Cheryl Cole, LOL! And not only…Sir Elton John wants to wear her designs too, and that’s a BIGGIE! Maia will be collaborating with Savile Row’s Richard James, bespoke tailors, to create a special capsule collection for the superstar to shine on stage. We can’t wait for Maia to shower Elton John with her plastic beads and are so proud of her! 

As the LFW approaches, CSM’s fashion grad studs are preparing for the shows. On FRIDAY, 14thSeptember, Maia is going to exhibit her collection during the Vauxhall Fashion Scout along with other CSM recent grads Aisling Farrell, Caroline Minar, Charlotte Helyar, Serena Gili and Shengwei Wang.1Granary is going to be there, so should you!

Too Cool for School

It has been only a few months since the BA graduate collections were presented at the entrance hall of 1Granary campus and the praising national coverage of the CSM talent, and fresh grads are already moving towards the future with big plans and high ambitions. You will see their works in September and October issues of Dazed&Confused, Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, POP, Wonderland Magazine, i-D and such, as well as in ad campaigns, books on fashion, music videos and concerts, some to be worn by celebrities like Elton John! So, 1Granary is excited to present our own photo shoot, made for us by Nikolay Biryukov  - an exclusive fashion shoot of collections of recent Central St. Martins graduates, MA alumni and a selection of designs from 2nd years. We are proud of all and wish them to succeed.

P.S: thank you guys for supporting 1Granary and providing us with all your amazing designs!

missy elliot – get your freak on

1. Jumper - Natalija Mencej, military hat – neighbours (he thinks it is from Urban Outfitters),  briefs and shoes – Olga’s, socks – Altynai’s.

2. Top – Richard Quinn, bangles - Charlotte le Hardy.

3. Dress - Nayuko Yamamoto, Shoes and bag - Marques’Almeida, bangles - Charlotte le Hardy.

4. Embroidered sweater - Stephanie Imma Cristofaro, jumper - MarquesÁlmeida, gold chips brooches - Charlotte le Hardy

5. Dress - Maia Bergman.

6. Veil – Sian O’Flaherty.

7. Top – Richard Quinn, shorts – Marques’Almeida, bangles - Charlotte le Hardy, shoes - Vans.

8. Top, trousers, skirt – all Jessica Mort; nipple piercing – Hackney road piercing salon.

9. Coat – Sophie Lynas, ring - Conor Joseph, tongue brooch - Charlotte le Hardy, snickers – Nike, hat - neighbours.

10. Dress - Jessie Hands, glasses – The Row

11. Dress - Hayley Grundmann, ring and earing - Conor Joseph.

12. Veil -Sian O’Flaherty, dress – Rebecca Adams, shoes – stylist’s own.

13. Dress and a transparent t-shirt - Annelise Armitage, hat- Sophie Lynas, earings - Mawi.

14. Dress (worn as top) - Jessie Hands, skirt – Richard Quinn, shoes - Brick Lane.

15. Dress - Hayley Grundmann, ring and earing - Conor Joseph.

16. Trousers – Sophie Lynas, hat - Marques’Almeida.


17. Dress and a transparent t-shirt - Annelise Armitage, hat- Sophie Lynas, earings - Mawi.

Photography: Nikolay Biryukov

Make-up and hair: Marina Keri

Model: Laura O’Grady@SelectModelManagement 

Styling: Olga Kuryshchuk

Art Direction: Becca Deakins

Fashion assistant: Bella Catling

To get any of the designer’s contacts please email us on info@1granary.com.