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Dominic Huckbody: “We all love a show, don’t we?”

What happens when a graduate show is abruptly cancelled?

Intimacy, warmth, tenderness and familiarity are the essence of Dominic Huckbody’s work. “It’s essential for me to feel an affinity to the boy I’m designing for,” says the London-based menswear designer, originally from Manchester. A former intern of Martine Rose, Givenchy, JW Anderson and Grace Wales Bonner, the University of Westminster graduate unveiled his collection, Safe in the Hands of Love, at London Fashion Week on Valentine’s Day. He describes it as a eulogy to the friction between intimacy and autonomy, whether it is a friendship or a romantic bond.

Check Dominic Huckbody’s portfolio on Pinterest

Dominic Huckbody: “We all love a show, don’t we?”
Dominic Huckbody, Collection
Dominic Huckbody: “We all love a show, don’t we?”
Dominic Huckbody: “We all love a show, don’t we?”
Dominic Huckbody: “We all love a show, don’t we?”
Dominic Huckbody: “We all love a show, don’t we?”
Dominic Huckbody: “We all love a show, don’t we?”

Through classical sculpture like Auguste Rodin’s ‘The Thinker’ and more playful references like cats and dogs from Instagram, Huckbody has given life to a collection that serves as a personal statement, keeping it true to who he is and who he recognises himself to be as a designer. Inspired by the work of American artist David Hammons, he uses grease body prints to infuse his garments – in particular, his knitwear – with warmth and sensuality. “I wanted my models to look like they had been hugged and as if a person had left a mark on them,” he says.

“What attracted me was seeing how people can tell stories through clothing. That’s the most impressive thing someone can do,”

If it hadn’t been for his brother Christopher, a fashion graduate too, Dominic’s career would’ve been different. Growing up, his brother was already into fashion while Dominic was an art type of person. “It was never an instant: ‘I always wanted to do this’,” he says. But when Christopher introduced him to the work of Martine Rose, fashion became more than just clothes for him. “What attracted me was seeing how people can tell stories through clothing. That’s the most impressive thing someone can do,” says the designer.

Dominic Huckbody: “We all love a show, don’t we?”
Dominic Huckbody: “We all love a show, don’t we?”
Dominic Huckbody: “We all love a show, don’t we?”
Dominic Huckbody: “We all love a show, don’t we?”
Dominic Huckbody, Design Development
Dominic Huckbody: “We all love a show, don’t we?”
Dominic Huckbody: “We all love a show, don’t we?”

But fashion is more than a way to spread a message as it provides an escape from reality. “We need designers who design clothes with a purpose, but also for an element of fancy and escapism,” Dominic says. During lockdown, his favourite floral fleece – from the Napapijri x Martine Rose capsule collection – was like a blanket that gave him the comfort he needed during such crazy times. “That’s the power of clothing,” he says. “They can make you feel safe, happy or sad.”

Photographing his collection’s lookbook with Christopher during lockdown also turned out to be very therapeutic. Both designers had recently broken up with their respective boyfriends when they found themselves locked in a one-bedroom flat, unable to leave the house for more than an hour a day. “It was gloom and doom everywhere,” says Huckbody, “but I couldn’t have gone through it with a better person.”

Dominic Huckbody: “We all love a show, don’t we?”
Dominic Huckbody: “We all love a show, don’t we?”
Dominic Huckbody, Design Development
Dominic Huckbody: “We all love a show, don’t we?”
Dominic Huckbody: “We all love a show, don’t we?”
Dominic Huckbody: “We all love a show, don’t we?”
Dominic Huckbody: “We all love a show, don’t we?”
Dominic Huckbody: “We all love a show, don’t we?”
Dominic Huckbody: “We all love a show, don’t we?”

One day, to cheer his brother up, Christopher went into the bedroom in one of Dominic’s designs, ready to put the bins out. After that, each brother wore the other sibling’s collection while washing up or brushing their teeth, just for fun. The snaps from those moments, combined with some posed portraits, were put together in a lookbook that amazed journalists like Charlie Porter. Even tutors from different universities wanted to use it to motivate their fashion students. Dominic could not be more grateful about it. “You can be the best designer in the world, but if no one sees your work or understands why you are doing it, it becomes pointless,” he says.

“I feel really fortunate because I graduated with a full collection, whereas other people in my situation did not have this opportunity,”

Three years ago, tutors at the University of Westminster decided to restructure the course, moving the making of the students’ final collections to the beginning and leaving their portfolio work for the end. “Every single batch found that frustrating because we come back from placement and we need to warm up again,” Dominic says. However, it was a blessing in disguise this year. By the time the UK went into lockdown, they had already presented their work. “I feel really fortunate because I graduated with a full collection, whereas other people in my situation did not have this opportunity,” he adds.

Dominic Huckbody: “We all love a show, don’t we?”
Dominic Huckbody: “We all love a show, don’t we?”
Dominic Huckbody, Design Development
Dominic Huckbody: “We all love a show, don’t we?”

For him, not being able to present your work in a show is a shame. After years of hard work and all-nighters, fashion students expect to end their studies how they were always promised: seeing their collections on models, walking down the runway, with an audience of proud parents and fashion professionals. But they have responded very creatively to counterbalance the situation, opting for a digital format. However, Dominic is glad that he didn’t have to go through the same process. “There are many ways to showcase a collection, but I think those approaches should be kept as an addition to a show,” he says. “We all love a show, don’t we?”

“Don’t put yourself into a box of what someone else wants you to be.”

Now that a few months have passed, Huckbody confesses his student life was very stressful. His advice? Be open to criticism and take what the tutors say on board, but also be honest with yourself. “Listen to what people say, but make sure you stick to who you are,” he adds. “Don’t put yourself into a box of what someone else wants you to be.”

Dominic has a goal for the future: being more sustainable. He has used deadstock fabric for his collection, and he now wants to incorporate 3D pattern software into his process to reduce waste. His idea of sustainability also includes making the fashion industry a better place for people to grow, as creatives and as humans.

His dream, however, is starting a label with his brother. “We’ve never designed anything together, but we have a very good work relationship in which we support each other and criticise each other’s work,” he says. Only time will tell, but Dominic Huckbody feels ready for whatever happens next, whatever that is. “I’m always ready to learn.”

Dominic Huckbody: “We all love a show, don’t we?”
Dominic Huckbody: “We all love a show, don’t we?”
Dominic Huckbody: “We all love a show, don’t we?”
Dominic Huckbody: “We all love a show, don’t we?”
Dominic Huckbody: “We all love a show, don’t we?”
Dominic Huckbody, Lookbook
Dominic Huckbody: “We all love a show, don’t we?”