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Florentina Leitner: “Do we really need more fashion?”

The recent graduate on why fashion shouldn’t be forgotten during a pandemic, what fashion school doesn’t prepare you for and the importance of sparking joy with her creation.

For Viennese-born fashion designer Florentina Leitner, the most important aspect of her work is that it brings joy to the wearer. “I don’t want to take myself, or fashion, too seriously,” she tells us over the phone from her new apartment in Antwerp. Fashion has now become instinctive to Leitner, who explains how her collections come together very naturally. “I’m always looking out for things and if there is something that triggers me, I will follow it.”

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Florentina Leitner: “Do we really need more fashion?”
Florentina Leitner, Lookbook

Leitner’s recent Vertigo collection, for example, was inspired by an exhibition of the same name at the mumok museum in Vienna. Moved by the optical art that she saw there, she devoured all the information she could find on the subject. From watching Alfred Hitchcock’s classic film Vertigo to creating her own optic art collages, she explored the theme extensively.

Like all her work, Leitner’s Vertigo collection is about bringing joy. “I am playful [with my work], I always like fun details.” It is a creative process that is more about conveying a feeling than commerce. She dislikes the industry’s reliance upon commercial pieces, such as printed t-shirts. “As a designer, I would like to see those less, but I can also understand they sometimes need to make basic things to make money.”

This is why her collaboration with Belgian sunglasses brand KOMONO – an extension of Leitner’s MA collection – was such a rewarding experience. Made to look as if they had been liquefied and almost melting off the face, Leitner is the first to admit the sunglasses might not appeal to the everyday customer. Yet they quickly sold out. “It was nice to see that people appreciated the creative aspect of them,” she explains.

 

Florentina Leitner: “Do we really need more fashion?”
Florentina Leitner, Design Development

“We still need clothes; people still want to look pretty, I want to be able to help people escape the harsh times that we are currently facing.”

Although Leitner’s positive attitude towards designing makes the process appear easy, there were obstacles that occurred during the creation of Vertigo. Most notable of these was COVID-19, which peaked while she was working on the collection. It forced her to question: “Do we really need more fashion?” While the pandemic highlighted to Leitner that the industry needs change, she also realised that fashion was just as important as ever. “We still need clothes; people still want to look pretty, I want to be able to help people escape the harsh times that we are currently facing.”

Florentina Leitner: “Do we really need more fashion?”
Florentina Leitner, Lookbook

COVID-19 also meant that most graduate designers didn’t get to showcase their final collections on a runway this year, and as a result, many turned to digital means to promote their work. Alongside her friend Geoffrey Lillemon, Leitner created 3D scans of all her pieces. While she enjoyed being forced to learn new things during this process, she admits that she’d prefer not to rely on digital in the future. “I definitely would like to look into it more, but for presentations, I am a fan of analogue photography,” she says.

Since finishing her graduate collection, Leitner has begun working as a womenswear design assistant at Dries Van Noten. Although she enjoyed her time at Antwerp’s Royal Academy, she admits that her MA didn’t prepare her for all aspects of real-life work, as much of the course involved working on projects alone. “I think it’s more tailored to people who would like to start their own brand afterwards,” Leitner explains. “How to work in a group, that’s something I’m learning a lot at Dries.” Additionally, she notes how the critical feedback you can get within the university environment isn’t for everyone. “But I think if you really have the passion, you should definitely just try it.”

Florentina Leitner: “Do we really need more fashion?”
Florentina Leitner, Design Development

“The industry should concentrate on making two really good collections.”

Leitner is clearly passionate about the industry in which she has found herself, but there are a few changes that she still wishes to see. Most notably she hopes issues surrounding sustainability as well as the appreciation for craftsmanship will get the attention they deserve. In attempts to tackle both these issues, she’d like to see the industry move towards a two-season model. “The industry should concentrate on making two really good collections.” She likens it to a gourmet dining experience, “like those restaurants that have a tiny menu but what’s on it is of really good quality. And if it’s really good, people will appreciate it and come back.”

So what’s next for the young designer? Leitner enjoys the experience of working for a bigger brand but also hopes to start her own in the future. With her KOMONO collaboration a success, and requests to stock her pieces from many online stores, she feels optimistic. Characteristically, she won’t dwell on negatives, or what happens if things go wrong: “I’m still young, I can still make a few mistakes.” She won’t let fear get in her way.

Florentina Leitner: “Do we really need more fashion?”
Florence Leitener, Illustration and Lookbook