The Crisis of Creative Recognition

As we move back into the show season, we have been thinking about the reason why enthusiastic teens decide to study fashion in the first place. No designer goes to art school with the burning desire to become a millionaire – today those folks are better suited trying their luck in crypto or AI. They start out because of a need to give voice to their creativity; to learn how to skilfully express their inner worlds. That’s firmly reflected in our last newsletter: we asked emerging brands what success is for them, and the unanimous answer was to remain creative. Money is nice, they say, but mostly to support their creative freedom.

Creativity is inherently linked to a person’s identity. As creatives, we seek validation from others to affirm that identity. It’s a comforting thought to imagine we can get by without this external ‘approval’, but the truth is, we cannot. We constantly compare our achievements to those of others; we shape our ideas of success by looking at our peers – the grass is always greener.

Creatives don’t exist or design in a vacuum. From the dawn of humanity, we have thrived through the strength of communities. It is within our core being to care deeply about what others think of our contributions. For creativity to truly flourish, one needs to feel seen and appreciated by those around them.

This sense of validation is straightforward when you start your own brand, but it becomes more complex when you start working for a brand. Once a designer becomes part of a team, their creativity gets absorbed into a whole, not just without recognition but assigned to someone else. The thing that makes them unique has become taken for granted, inherently meaning: the core of who they are is taken for granted. In the long-term, that’s not a healthy formula for sustainable creativity.

The Genius vs The Team

Recently, we had a conversation with the CEO of a luxury fashion brand who shared his growing frustration with the industry’s stubbornness, related to this theme.

His concern was around the industry’s unwillingness to truly appreciate and celebrate collections that are created by an exceptional design team unless there is a singular, iconic figurehead. And that reluctance underscores a broader issue: an inability to embrace different models of creative collaboration. Too often, brands are reduced to their creative directors, overshadowing the contributions of the entire team.

Don’t get us wrong: brands need that leadership, vision and guidance – without it, they run the risk of becoming rudderless. The idea of a sole Creative Director also works very well for the audience; it evokes images of Christ at the helm of a church, where followers look to a single figure for guidance and inspiration. However, in today’s collaborative and fast-paced industry, this model of the lone genius seems outdated. It’s a trope that grossly oversimplifies the complex and collective effort behind a brand’s success. This narrative not only misrepresents reality but also undermines the invaluable contributions of all the designers who make successful collections.

A Paradigm Shift (and a destabilised design studio)

We have already started seeing a generational shift taking place. We are gradually transitioning into an era where team-born talent takes centre stage. This shift was perhaps most prominently showcased by Alessandro Michele at Gucci in 2015. Today, we see numerous creative directors who have emerged from within teams to become stars in their own right – names like Chemena Kamali, Daniel Lee, Sabato De Sarno, Matthieu Blazy and Matteo Tamburini highlight the merit of recognising and nurturing talent from inside.

But what if we were able to follow their journeys much earlier on? It would allow for a much more authentic discovery process rather than being told from one day to the next that a designer is a genius to be revered. It would transform the way we consume fashion media, shifting the focus from a single visionary to a mosaic of creative voices. For the press, the journey of a designer from an anonymous team member to a recognized creative force is a narrative rich with trials, tribulations and triumphs. In the way we love ‘following’ athletes’ careers, the unique backgrounds, inspirations and processes of individual designers would engage readers beyond the surface of fashion shows and brand launches. These stories not only highlight the diversity of talent within the industry but also humanise the fashion industry, making it more relatable to the public.

From a designer's perspective, when their work is acknowledged and celebrated, it validates their creative efforts. This visibility helps designers build their personal brands and portfolios, making them feel more integral to the brand's success rather than just cogs in the machine. It encourages a sense of ownership and pride in their work, which is crucial for sustaining long-term passion and commitment to their craft. When designers know that their ideas and hard work are appreciated and will be recognized, they are more likely to invest deeply in their projects and push the boundaries of innovation.

For brands, it may also positively mean building a more loyal team that works better together, for longer. Heads of talent acquisition frequently lament that designers lack loyalty today. In the past, designers would stay with a brand for five to seven years, fostering a stable and innovative environment. Today, designers often switch brands every two to three years to climb the salary ladder and seek better opportunities. This high turnover reflects a quest for validation and growth that often goes unrecognised within a brand. By acknowledging the contributions of all team members, brands can cultivate a sense of belonging and loyalty, leading to better talent retention and a more consistent creative output.

We know that brand success hinges on team success. But the current pattern of frequent changes is destabilising and unsustainable. Designers leaving jobs to pursue growth shows a willingness to participate in the current trend of rapid job changes, to inch closer to a place where they might be recognised for their talents more overtly. But constant movement is not where we find a sense of stillness that invites creativity. It breeds competition, a feeling of always being on edge, and never quite belonging.

Lessons to learn from adjacent creative industries

Perhaps, the fashion industry can draw valuable lessons from other sectors like film, sports and music, where recognition is more equitably distributed. Both movies and fashion are fundamentally about storytelling, yet in fashion, the story is often expected to be told by a single person. Consider how the Oscars celebrate achievements across various disciplines. This holistic approach underscores the importance of every role in crafting a masterpiece, be it a film or a fashion collection. By recognizing the diverse talents involved, the film industry creates a richer, more engaging narrative. In music, we see songwriters, producers, and session musicians receiving recognition alongside the performing artists. Grammy Awards, for instance, honour these behind-the-scenes contributors, ensuring their work is acknowledged and celebrated. Fashion could greatly benefit from a similar approach. Highlighting the efforts of each designer and artisan behind the scenes would not only bring authenticity but also rejuvenate brands by making them feel less commercial and more genuine.

In sports, team dynamics are crucial. While star players often receive the lion’s share of attention, the best teams understand that victories are the result of collective effort. Coaches, trainers and supporting players all contribute to the success of the team. This recognition of every participant's role is integral to maintaining morale and fostering a winning culture. The fashion industry could adopt this team-oriented mentality, acknowledging that while the Creative Director may be the star player, the success of the collection is due to the entire team’s effort.

A return to the appreciation of creativity

It’s alarmingly easy to dismiss an entire collection within seconds of seeing it appear online; criticism is quick and often lacks nuance – looooove or omg horrendous. But this oversimplified critique overlooks the true essence of fashion: the individual creativity and craftsmanship behind each piece. If we view collections not as monolithic wholes but as assemblies of unique items, each crafted by different hands, it becomes like an orchestra creating a symphony. This nuanced approach changes the conversation. It highlights individual expressions within a cohesive ensemble, revealing layers of creativity and artistry that are often overlooked in the rush to label a collection as a success or failure.

For brands, this shift is crucial. In an age of instant social media judgments, highlighting the talents behind each piece fosters deeper audience engagement. Showcasing designers’ stories and skills adds richness and depth, redefining fashion’s narrative to celebrate the craftsmanship that truly drives the industry. We’ve drifted too far into a realm dominated by marketing and image. There’s a collective craving to return to genuine design and craftsmanship. Recognising individual contributors isn’t just nice-to-have; it’s essential for the industry’s future. The narrative of the lone genius is no longer sustainable. The industry must evolve to recognise and celebrate the collective effort that underpins its greatest successes. This isn't merely a reevalution in recognition – it's a major shift in how we understand and value creativity.

Further Learning

Rick Rubin, now the official-unofficial Guru of Creativity, has spoken about the importance of collaboration and teamwork to fuel creativity in innumerable podcasts. Here’s a short(ish) video that includes some of his insights around this and creativity at large.

“Artisan, genius, professional: underlying all these models is the market. In blunter terms, they’re all about the way that you get paid. If the artisanal paradigm predates the emergence of modern capitalism—the age of the artisan was the age of the patron, with the artist as, essentially, a sort of feudal dependent—the paradigms of genius and professional were stages in the effort to adjust to it.”

The Atlantic published a brilliant piece by William Deresiewicz in 2015 which still feels relevant: ‘The Death of the Artist—and the Birth of the Creative Entrepreneur’, charting the changing nature of the artist as genius through the ages. (His recent book expands on this topic and looks promising.)

The work of esteemed professor Jean-Noël Kapferer extensively discusses the importance of brand identity and the myth of the ‘lone genius’ in branding. For more detailed insights, you might want to explore his books such as The Luxury Strategy and Strategic Brand Management.

There are great lessons to be learned from team leadership within the sports industry. The biography of Carlo Ancelotti – who coached Cristiano Ronaldo – is an excellent read, diving into the importance of building relationships, being adaptable, and creating a positive and cohesive team environment where every member feels valued and motivated.

And a fun one we love that dives into the large teams that create a film: the Oscar-winning sound designer, Mark Mangini, on how he created the unusual effects in Dune himself.