Johanna Parv: Be Fragile! Be Brave!

Tell us about your new collection, what was your starting point of inspiration? 

The starting point for this collection was following on from my graduate collection, based on the idea “Be Fragile! Be Brave!” which was a name of an exhibition of Estonian artist Anu Põder. From that point I began focusing on designing womenswear that is practical but elegant; combining the ultra-feminine with the ultra-functional in garments that improve an existing wardrobes’ power. I want to make the Johanna Parv wearer feel confident like they are capable of anything. I think this is connected to my personal interest in the women I see around London; commuters in constant motion. I wanted to change the way we perceive female power and strength in urban environments.

I met Stavros from Machine-A in October 2020, when he proposed I produce pieces for the shop. I was given the amazing opportunity to fully develop and execute my collection, launching it both online and physically. When designing the collection I was thinking about practicality and usability. Will it be easy to wear? Will it be functional when in motion? What does elegance mean to me? I created pieces that are lightweight and protective, with extra pockets which can be worn over existing garments and enhance their usability. I designed with a focus on re-using vintage pieces, adapting and updating them to contemporary life: I used existing fabrics I had left from my last collection as well as combining them with vintage handbags.

“I try to spend as much time as possible around nature to balance out the long hours I work in the studio. I go running and I cycle everywhere. I try to regularly take a moment to just sit in a park by myself.” – Johanna Parv

Is there a piece you’re particularly proud of? 

The nylon shoulder bags, which I developed especially for this season. They are fabricated in waterproof nylon which is a fabric I used throughout the collection. They have adjustable straps from repurposed vintage backpacks I’ve been collecting. All the pieces are handmade, produced in London using local factories and independent artisans.

Describe your studio space, how do you work? What are your design essentials? 

My studio is quite small, maybe because I have too much stuff. I always have multiple projects all going on at the same time so I try to be as organised as possible. I usually try to concentrate a whole day on one main project. I play music, listen to lectures and usually work until late. I try to spend as much time as possible around nature to balance out the long hours I work in the studio. I go running and I cycle everywhere. I try to regularly take a moment to just sit in a park by myself.

You graduated from CSM MA in February 2020, how has the past year been for you as a designer? How has your process changed? 

The year after I’ve graduated has been full of new connections, experiences, and opportunities, in many ways I feel very lucky. I have learned how to manage multiple projects at once and work with different people. As I spent most of the year in lockdown, it has not just given me more time to actually work on myself as a designer but has forced me to think more locally and work in a more resourceful way. I have definitely grown on a personal as well as a professional level.

Why was it important for you to begin your career as an independent brand as opposed to solely working as part of a large fashion house? 

This year whilst I’ve been developing my new work, I’ve also been working freelance for other brands and larger houses. I didn’t come to the conclusion that I have to immediately establish myself as a brand as soon as I graduated. I would rather develop my skills in the field of independent business development, temporarily working as a freelance designer for larger companies than continue to work under a large fashion house – both take time, but I chose the first option.

“It’s a huge responsibility to produce products that come into this world to serve a purpose and to design products with the intention that they will exist for a very long time.” – Johanna Parv

You said earlier your work revolves around blending practicality and functionality – how important is it for your clothes to be wearable, whilst also being stylish? What’s more important? 

If you focus too much on functional design, if you forget about the human in it, the garment becomes something else. As I was growing up in Estonia I was taught to value what is around us, to not over-consume and always reuse, to choose the practical over the decorative – so I decided to make the decorative functional instead, which is something that has always remained within the spirit of my brand. I would say purpose and function over style always. But I think that my task as a designer is to apply my aesthetic to the functionality of a garment in the best way for the wearer. If I fail to do so, if something looks good but doesn’t function or something functions but looks bad, it’s not a good design.

In an era of micro-trends and fast fashion how important is it to make clothes that will last and stay timeless? 

Fashion design is a reflection of the times, so trend cycles are inevitable, inspiration is often from an immediate moment, therefore the beauty of fashion is that it can reflect that. But the way garments are made, how the materials are sourced, and who actually produces a garment is what is important and is what ultimately adds value to a product. It’s so important to me as a designer to understand what my clothes do. It’s a huge responsibility to produce products that come into this world to serve a purpose and to design products with the intention that they will exist for a very long time. Why would you make things without consideration, care, and thought about what their life will be like in 10 years? I think it lies in taking responsibility. Ideally, you would like to pass your clothes on to your children, friends, or anyone; it’s important for me to create touching stories.

What is your biggest inspiration? 

My biggest inspiration at the moment is London, the cyclists, runners, and people on the move. My home where my skills, values, and aesthetics are from inspires me as well. The urban space and the streets, women navigating the city have always fascinated me the most.

“Getting to the big city all by myself, being so vulnerable but so brave, I grew stronger and even more curious about life, which has enriched my design palette and has given a bigger meaning to design. ” – Johanna Parv

You said your values and aesthetic comes from your home. How much of a presence does your heritage have on your identity as a designer? 

The presence of my Estonian heritage is very deeply ingrained into my design identity down to the simplest details; colours, shapes, and construction. For me, my work has always symbolised the Estonian forest and old Baltic myths… The memory and presence of home will always be a part of my work.

How has studying and now living in London changed that?

When I came to London I was introduced to fashion theory, I learned about different brands and my world ultimately became bigger. I got the chance to meet such a diverse array of talented, like-minded people with who I felt like I could finally communicate. Getting to the big city all by myself, being so vulnerable but so brave, I grew stronger and even more curious about life, which has enriched my design palette and has given a bigger meaning to design. I have always been close to urban spaces and the vulnerability of the humans who inhabit them, thinking about our function and the relevance of fashion within.

In times of such uncertainty, why is it important for you and your fellow designers to keep designing and creating? 

Because it gives more meaning to life.

What are your plans for the future? 

Setting up my business, continuing to learn, develop and keep being curious.