Representing the creative future

Richard Wagner determined Callum Kamara’s fate

Talking with BA Fashion Design graduate Callum Kamara about space, the body, and finding peace in 2020

Shanti Bell: Representing the Weight of Masculinity

The graduate’s BA collection, featuring woodwork sculptures and tailored menswear, was inspired by conversations with her brother

Tatiana Ruinist’s nostalgia-threaded tracksuits

What happens when British and post-soviet style merge together?

Scarlett Yang envisions clothes as a circular living system

What does it mean to ditch usual fabrics and invent a new organic matter for clothes?

Dominic Huckbody: “We all love a show, don’t we?”

What happens when a graduate show is abruptly cancelled?

Katya Zelentsova on excessive knitwear and two-week trainrides

Embarking on a proverbial train journey to self-discovery, the London-based designer revisits her native Russia

Sabah Iqbal could be big in Pakistan

The BA Fashion Design Womenswear talks identity studies and turning down a house and a job

Freja Wesik, in praise of do-it-yourself

The designer waves goodbye to university with a rainbow tinted homage to DIY

Fi Grew makes fashion without clothes

Photographing and collaging against the basic preconception of fashion

Lykke Lund Rasmussen on uncovering memories through fashion

How much of us do we carry with us forever? ‘Memória’ challenges the identity of dress by creating a tactile dimension of captured recollections

Mollie-may Boyd on the irrelevance of the outcome

The BA Fashion Design with Marketing graduate questions a fashion education relying on theoretical concepts and overly polished images

Florentina Leitner: “Do we really need more fashion?”

The recent graduate on why fashion shouldn’t be forgotten during a pandemic, what fashion school doesn’t prepare you for and the importance of sparking joy with her creation.

Jay Juyeon Lee: Measurements are subjective

The South Korean designer is celebrating the physicality of the human figure.

Isidora Durovic: The case for improvisation in design

From childhood modelling for Celine to designing during the pandemic, Serbian designer Isidora Durovic digs into the Working Girl handbag for her graduate collection

Cilka Sadar: From Olympic slopes to Archigram dresses

Former Olympic snowboarder Cilka Sadar talks about how her snowboarding and the 60s space-age obsession that inspired her collection

Shuxuan Li’s womenswear speaks its own language

Based in New York, Chinese knitwear designer Shuxuan Li creates fitted yet loose womenswear that explores contrasts and tensions between artistic heritage and superficial modernity.

Jisoo Jang wants to “make the future of the Earth happy” with her graduate collection

In an ode to her vase collection, Jisoo Jang’s graduate collection highlights the art of storytelling with an environmental conscious

How Alexandra Armata unpicked her Polish heritage with her MA collection

She explored the utilitarian wardrobe of Soviet Poland, the impact of politics on dress and the contrast towards today’s hyperconsumption

Masha Popova flies solo

The recent fashion design graduate found success online and rejected the post-grad job route

Cornelia Borgerhoff gave Ivy League Style An Update

Raised in a predominantly white neighbourhood in Philadelphia, menswear designer Cornelia Borgerhoff explores what it means to be white when you’re not with a collection full of contemporary prep-school looks.

Alex Wolfe on chairmen and playful masculinity

Alex Wolfe’s graduate collection, titled ‘The Boredroom,’ challenges traditional menswear codes, expressing playfulness and sensuality

Laura Tanzer: Why storytelling makes design irrelevant

Laura Tanzer calls for a change in fashion education

François-Xavier Lefebvre and the fashionable fetish

Where latex Vacuum Cubes meet playful design to escape everyday life.

How Sandra Poulson wove Angolan history into her collection

The recent graduate discusses her political approach to design and why fashion should be used to spark change.

What do Creative Directors and Designers actually do?

The inherent opaqueness of our industry makes it difficult to look behind the scenes

Julia Ballardt: The poetry of punk

The German designer Julia Ballardt is inspired in her collection by the subculture’s signature emblems of belonging.

How Yasmina Atta is channeling surrealist African cinema through her graduate collection

The Nigerian designer talks on capturing the feeling of in between-ness that exists when two cultures merge through a single collection that bonds traditional Nigerian doctrines with modern crafting techniques

Johanna Parv: “Is femininity a form or an action?”

Womenswear graduate Johanna Parv questions the extent to which the shapes from everyday, active situations impose restrictions on the female form

Mei Sze Tsang designs workwear for bricklayers

Reimagining a working-class uniform with nary a blue collar in sight.

Samantha D’iorio: Why does size matter?

The Australian designer questions the state of body inclusivity in the industry, and focuses on fit and function.

Joshua Crabtree feels fortunate in 2020

A conversation with Joshua Crabtree on trying to fill the void post-graduation and finding something positive

Daichi Tabata on championing storytelling through design

The Japanese graduate discusses his unusual journey into fashion, translating emotion through design and why we should be repurposing our clothes

Chi Yu Han and the gender divide in fashion

The New York-based designer thinks carefully about masculine and feminine roles within a given garment.

London-based knitwear designer Eleana Burrow’s design process based on her instinct

Designing is a response to her own life, so practicality meet emotions, textures, lines and shapes to structure the fluid silhouettes in her knits

Talia Byre is collecting her heritage

Recent graduate Talia Byre talks intimate details about realising her purpose and how to get through the "4 am on the kitchen floor" moments.

Karen Heshi: “Why must a suit look like a suit?”

The designer reflects on the tension between functionality and identification in her graduate collections.

Sarah Lim: “Clothing is meant to be worn.”

A down-to-earth approach to design ready to embrace an uncertain future.

Nico Verhaegen designs an ode to nomadic existence

An unusual parallel is drawn between shamans and bike messengers in Verhaegen’s recent graduate collection.

Catherine Hudson: The tension of displacement

The British designer wants to reflect the diasporic experience of the Rastafari subculture in her garments.

The unfunctional bags of Julie Kegels

When form does not quite follow function. A lesson in Belgian rebellion.

Sexual awakening materialised: the fantastic world of Juan Camilo Rodriguez’ countryside boy

The Colombian designer on imaginary dreamworlds that explore complex themes of self-discovery and sexuality

“I don’t really see myself as a fashion designer,” – Belgian artist Chris Lensz on mixing fashion design and photography

His graduate collection presented lots of tailoring and revolved around the concept of Victorian mourning

Rin Choe on the artistry of pattern cutting and deconstructing Korean tradition

Choe fell into the industry unexpectedly, but in doing so, her collection aims to rewrite the traditions of her Korean heritage

Heidi meets Pablo Rousson

What would an encounter between alpine aesthetic and sensual men from the 80s look like?

Davina Amajor on multi-functional garments and overlooked materials

With her BA collection ‘90 Degrees’, Davina set out to recover the functionality and aesthetic value of worn fabrics that were once undesired, in order to prevent them from being disposed of

Orlando Yates’s jackets recall pre-COVID wild times at festivals

Menswear designer Orlando Yates on his sunrise-hued garments that were inspired by waking up at festivals

Shanghai-based designer Zheng Lu believes the future is mechanical

A collection about rebelling against industry norms, Zheng Lu’s search for a well-oiled fashion system led him to create workwear with his own spin on anti–fashion

Dance influences meet architectural details in designer Sun Mu Lee’s sporty garments

The South Korean designer works with body movements to transpose architecture into garments

Ellen Fowles: “Fashion is for everyone regardless of age or ability”

Meet the graduate breaking stigma with her functional yet affordable adaptive wear

Søs Christine Hejselbæk on 3D-printing away a carbon footprint

The designer discusses making photosynthetic sculptures for the body

Zitong Wang: In bloom

The Chinese designer is using distorted images of nature to redefine the codes of masculinity

Eleanor Chapman: The power of adapting

The British designer believes that modular garments are the future of sustainable fashion

Yamil Arbaje: Clothing as the Personal and Political

The Latin American designer merged personal and political history for his graduate collection, looking to working class aesthetics from his home country in the 1960s

Karolina Widecka and design by conspiracy theory

Her MA collection, ‘Where’s the Curve?’, focuses on conspiracy theories and the paranoia they provoke

Emma Gudmundson dives into the deep

A perfectionist designer learns to go with the flow

Swiss designer Virginie Jemmely on shifting sartorial codes

Geneva graduate Virginie Jemmely subverts society’s archetypal figures by reinventing the traditional womenswear wardrobe

Joe Pearson presents Five Archetypal Men in One Collection

His work explores notions of masculinity that range from the elegant yet nonchalant appearance of the dandy to Mr Pearl’s corsets to the traditional businessman’s suit

Riding the Wave With Giorgia Galfré

From the paradoxical confines of her student flat in Antwerp, fashion graduate Giorgia Galfré defied the limitations of lockdown to create a unisex collection inspired by the freedom of surfing

Sofia Mollberg: “We musn’t shame vulnerability”

The Swedish designer is using her graduate collection to discuss the importance of body language and recognising the effects on mental health in the fashion industry

Jamie Sutherland and the magpie’s paradise

Mixing 16kg worth of scavenged Nitrous Oxide canisters and luxury essential ‘toilet paper’ together in a grad collection

Polly Henderson: Between authentic and synthetic

The British designer is inspired in her process by the art of manipulating reality in photography

Wake up fashion, sustainability still doesn’t mean anything

“The biggest issue with fashion is the mindset”: An interview with Blue Sandford

Kat Lau’s man: contemporary, unregulated and free like a bird

Inspired by theories on the relation between body and mind, London-based menswear designer Kat Lau creates lightweight functional pieces that are meant to last.

Kristian David’s bridge between the East and the West

Dancing the Chobi dressed in a Iraqi flag, the designer reappropriates elements of his heritage in his graduate collection

Sara Sofie Tallaksen on making Norwegian traditions modern

Old knit techniques meet upcycled barbie t-shirts to make a surprisingly sustainability-minded graduate collection

Lily Xu: Knitting Yourself Back Together

MA Knitwear graduate Lily Xu on tackling loss and loneliness through clothing

Keren Xu: a man laced up in corsetry

Through drape and corsetry, the Chinese menswear designer praises the power of being feminine.

Jessica Guzman on machine-knitting careful chaos

Can you manufacture the same garment differently every time? Jessica Guzman’s semi-elasticated knits say yes.

You Jung Kim: Imagining the Ideal through the Pregnant Male Cyborg

The designer created the ideal self-portrait of a human projected onto the gendered cyborg

“Clothes shouldn’t be for a one-time display,” – Chinese designer Yiwen Jia on practical fashion

The Japan-based fashion graduate developed many experimental techniques, while keeping her designs practical and wearable

Jaden Cho on Non-objects

The South Korean designer wants to redefine the role of couture in modern society

Pin Mirin: Shaping A New Beginning

The BA graduate on how clothing has helped her adapt to a new life, as she mourns her old one

For Zhuoran Li, the body is a blank canvas

How a leg surgery as a kid impacted the designer’s views for years to come

Imogen Shields’ highly saturated office space

Combining psychology and fashion the designer explores her love and hate for suited men

Wenhai Su on cross-cultural heritage and sustainable development

Expressing a fragmented impression of youth and culture, ‘Crystal Blinkers’ is an exploration of Wenhai’s multi-layered world.

How Annemarie Saric is making luxury available for all with her MA collection

The Austrian designer mirrored the streamlined shapes of concept cars, inspired by the beacons of future possibility for her graduate collection to highlight the power of the silhouette

Gender neutral swim-suiting from hybrid designer Cornelia Ferm

Context skewed fusion dressing; where swimwear and suiting meet

Vintage aficionado, Jiyong Kim, uses nature as a design device

What does it look like when nature becomes your greatest collaborator?

Dahee Kim on abandoning the rulebooks and challenging childhood oppression

The Korean designer explores the isolating group culture and name-calling from her schooling days into a collection that celebrates self-expression and individuality

Xinyao Liang on subverting patriarchal norms

The BA Fashion graduate tells us about Chris Jordan’s albatrosses, staying off social media, and inventing new textile techniques

Charlotte Richard’s pixels and threads

The designer’s experience as a student, her digital graduate collection and her feelings about the fashion industry

What does it mean to be relevant when fashion is not?

What values remain important when everything around us seems to fall apart?

Lee Hurst wants to bring back the old-world charm in fashion

A traditionalist at heart, his tailoring methods mix the bygone era with a personal twist to create heirlooms to pass down generations

Beau Scarlett-Pitt on erotic identities, Savile Row-tailoring, and The Village People

“I’ve always said one of the reasons I got into fashion was because I’m tone-deaf and no one wanted to start a band with me.”

Kaiwen Shi: a trip in the real world fantasy

The New York based graduate brings the minutiae of everyday life into the fantastical realm, offering an amusing window into her design process

Domenic Roylance: countering the doom and gloom of 2020

An uplifting collection designed as a reaction to this year’s ongoing hardships

Hybridising fashion and objects through the work of Grace Ling

Grace Ling on eccentric elegance and intelligent femininity