Kitty’s surface design research and inspiration came from old traditional pottery and paintings, sourced from back issues of the Saatchi catalogues. Having a mother who worked as a potter made it a natural starting point. For her silhouette, she started by fixating on historical imagery of medieval clothing with their long winkle picker shoes and tight leggings combined with formal jackets and gathered shirts. The proportions of this medieval attire triggered Kitty to look at playing with unusual proportion, awkward shapes and show stopping shoes. “I made the shoes really early on as I became obsessed with them, and getting the shape right. I started by just playing with wire and mud rock before painting them. I then used them in every fitting from the start. The shoes were a really big part of my collections and process.”
Playing with that idea of proportion, scale and taste, Kitty designed a collection of awkwardly fitted, slashed and manipulated garments that used techniques like patchwork, embroidery, and knitwear, combined with elements of traditional suiting. Simple alterations were made to patterns to make the suits feel slightly off kilter, enabling the garments to naturally gather or crease in specific places, for example at the knees and shoulders.