Polimoda 2025: Fashion as Transmission

Amina Vanneling
Gothenburg, Sweden
“Quiet One-Sided Rain (Gothenburg Rain)”

What are the key inspirations behind this collection?

This collection began as an observation of individuality in Gothenburg – my first home after immigrating from Iran in 1999. I was struck by how quietly people moved through the rain, rarely speaking, even when sharing shelter. It felt distant, yet poetic. I viewed it all as an outsider, noticing how people prepared differently: the overprepared, the one in denial, the elegant, the careless. Rain became a metaphor for identity, emotion, and how we navigate the world – each commuter a character in a quiet urban play.

What materials, colours and techniques did you utilise in the creation of this collection?

The palette reflects Gothenburg’s rainy atmosphere – deep blues, greys, touches of white and beige, and transparent elements inspired by Saul Leiter’s rain-soaked photography. Materials were chosen to mirror how people dress for rain: nylon for the prepared, sagging wool for the unprepared, and classic trench fabrics for the elegant. Each textile tells a story of personality and function. Reflections, distortion, and layering were key design techniques throughout.

What’s next?

After graduating from Polimoda in June, I’m relocating to Milan to begin an internship at Ann Demeulemeester. I’m excited to immerse myself fully in this experience and grow professionally. While I dream of developing my own creative universe, I’m focused now on learning, contributing, and building what’s next – step by step.

@aminavanneling

Chloe Geyer

What are the key inspirations behind this collection?

This collection was inspired by the forest across the road from my childhood home. That forest shaped my early years and became a space of escape. I’d swing from a tire, camp with my dad, celebrate birthdays, and run barefoot through dirt and leaves. The collection captures this naivety and nostalgia – the textures of being immersed in nature and the quiet magic of standing up after play, covered in leaves, flowers, and twigs.

What materials, colours and techniques did you utilise in the creation of this collection?

I worked with organic textures, keeping raw edges to allow fraying and loose threads. Transparency, layering, and draping kept the mood light and hazy. This project pushed me into weaving and fabric manipulations I hadn’t explored before. One highlight was using feathers extensively, which added texture and became a favourite part of the process.

What’s next?

I’m happy not knowing what’s next! I’d love to continue learning – maybe a Master’s in textiles – but I’m also enjoying the openness of this moment. Right now, I’m just excited to imagine all the possibilities and see what unfolds.

@chloe_geyer

Derin Kemer
Istanbul, Turkey
“Boss Bitch – Bitch Boss”

What are the key inspirations behind this collection?

Boss Bitch – Bitch Boss is inspired by my mother, who single-parented me my whole life. Watching her go to work in high heels and stand on her feet for more than 24 hours in a male-dominated industry showed me she was the most powerful person in the room. I portrayed that vision of her in this collection. There are oversized shoulder silhouettes and exaggerated hip structures to imitate classical male power-dressing. These are powerful, unapologetic, and sexy looks – day or night – designed not to carry the woman, but to be carried by her aura.

What materials, colours and techniques did you utilise in the creation of this collection?

There are no fabric manipulations, but sculptural elements that command attention. The neutral-toned palette is inspired by my mother’s wardrobe. I used mostly wool and cotton, enhanced with macramé overlays and integrated walnut wood accents – symbolically chosen for their traditionally masculine associations. These materials helped me create feminine yet powerful garments, including knitwear, that appear simple but are transformable through styling.

What’s next?

While I can’t predict the future, I want to deepen my understanding of garment construction, textiles, and 3D sculpture. I plan to travel, connect with creatives across cultures, and learn from how fashion is practiced in different markets. I believe in gaining firsthand experience to develop a more global and thoughtful perspective.

@derinkmr

Elena Azeglio
Viterbo, Italy
“Bonding in Violence”

What are the key inspirations behind this collection?

This collection reflects the disorientation of moving from a small town to a big city – where the excitement of freedom clashes with a new sense of violence and vulnerability. Inspired by Enter the Void by Gaspar Noé, I wanted to create a kind of “modern-day armour” for young people: garments that evoke both protection and liberation, exploring how we defend ourselves while trying to stay open to the world.

What materials, colours and techniques did you utilise in the creation of this collection?

The colour palette draws from Tokyo’s street lights – neon hues that glow against darkness. I used ultra-light nylon to represent the freedom of military parachuting, contrasted with structured paracord macramé techniques that evoke the tension and control of samurai armour. This balance between lightness and defence is central to each look.

What’s next?

I’m excited about the possibility of joining a professional team and learning from those already in the field. I’m especially interested in the development of innovative fabrics, and eager to keep exploring how fashion can act as both expression and armour.

@m.e.rak

Eseniia Rybnikova
Tyumen, Russia
“The Architect”

What are the key inspirations behind this collection?

The Architect draws from brutalist architecture, Frank Gehry, and Orwell’s 1984. I saw both Winston Smith and Big Brother as “architects” of opposing worlds – one striving for freedom and love, the other for control. This duality inspired me to explore how each of us shapes reality: not just through design, but through the values we build into it. The collection is a reflection on personal and collective agency, asking: what kind of architect will you choose to be?

What materials, colours and techniques did you use in the creation of this collection?

I juxtaposed softness with rigidity: fluid fabrics contrast with plastic embroidery, coloured glass, mosaic fragments, and stained-glass-inspired prints. This tension mirrors 1984’s themes – between tyranny and tenderness. Each look uses screen printing, hand painting, foil bonding, and digital printing to convey layered emotion and intentionality. Colour and print choices were developed to shape a distinct atmosphere and amplify the collection’s conceptual narrative.

What’s next?

I’m seeking an internship to deepen my real-world understanding of the fashion industry. I want to contribute to a creative team, absorb knowledge, and evolve through experience. Eventually, I hope to launch my own brand – fashion is the way I express what I see and feel in the world.

@rybnikova_eseniia

Farnia Salim
Tehran, Iran
“The In-Between Homes”

What are the key inspirations behind this collection?

The In-Between Homes explores the emotional reality of living between cultures – deeply connected to one’s roots yet constrained by them. It reflects the conflict between tradition and freedom, belonging and distance. The collection speaks to those navigating dual identities, constantly adapting without fully settling. It’s about making a home in the liminal space between where you’re from and where you’re going.

What materials, colours and techniques did you use in the creation of this collection?

Fabric manipulation is central, with fraying, fringe, and soft layering symbolising emotion and movement. These elements are contrasted with structured pieces to express inner tension. The colour palette spans pinks, reds, greens, and blues – punctuated by grounding tones of black and beige. Bold and expressive, the collection merges historical references with personal narrative.

What’s next?

I want to continue telling honest, emotionally rooted stories through fashion. I’m seeking opportunities to join a creative team where I can grow, collaborate, and keep developing my voice. My goal is to build a practice that reflects personal and cultural complexity with sincerity and imagination.

@_farnia_s

Filippo Montanini
Emilia-Romagna, Italy
“Riccione: ravers and sailors”

What are the key inspirations behind this collection?

Riccione – my second home – was the heart of this project. I wanted to capture its bold mix of seaside kitsch, sailor iconography, rave culture, and campy, transgressive energy. It’s a place of contradiction: bad taste and beauty, nostalgia and rebellion, innocence and wildness. The collection channels all of that into a personal narrative about freedom, belonging, and self-expression.

What materials, colours and techniques did you use in the creation of this collection?

Inspired by Riccione’s vibrant nightlife and seaside palette, I combined classic sailor wools and cottons in navy and white with coated hot pink and black denims, glossy leathers in red and purple, and silk duchesses in greys and brights. Black lace, silk satins in green sage, gold sand, and lavender added softness and sensuality. It’s a chaotic blend – just like the town itself.

What’s next?

I honestly don’t know! I’m in awe that I even graduated. This collection felt like a full-circle moment – from insecure first-year to someone finally confident in their voice. Now I’m ready to jump into the industry, a little scared but full of excitement. I’ve found my voice – and I won’t stay silent anymore.

@pippodinomee

Grigory Fedenko
Moscow, Russia
“Rise and Fall”

What are the key inspirations behind this collection?

The collection is a monologue about the concept of power. What makes one powerful? What does it mean to have too much power? I split the narrative into two parts: Gain of Power – inspired by the industrialisation of crude oil production – and Show of Power – drawing from the fall of the Russian Empire and the Romanov family. These two sides reflect both the rise and the collapse of dominance.

What materials, colours and techniques did you utilise in the creation of this collection?

I focused on texture to let the story be read through touch. Military wool gabardines in dark green and grey, wax-coated pants, and vinyl-covered panels suggest uniformity with an industrial edge. One look features light grey suede sprayed to appear muddied – hinting at the rawness of corrupted power. Jewellery and medals were coated in epoxy resin and dipped in oil-like paint to evoke objects freshly pulled from a canister.

What’s next?

A lot of exciting developments ahead. I want to learn the fashion ecosystem from professionals first, and see where that leads me.

@gregory_vid

Huang Ying (Viktória)
Hungary / China
“Under the Plum Blossom Tree”

What are the key inspirations behind this collection?

Under the Plum Blossom Tree is a response to witnessing my mother’s ageing – a quiet process of change, fragility, and strength. The collection reflects emotional codes in gestures, routines, and unspoken care. The plum blossom, which blooms in winter, became a metaphor for ageing with grace and perseverance. I aimed to “crack the code” of ageing by creating a visual and emotional language built from subtle details.

What materials, colours and techniques did you utilise in the creation of this collection?

I used soft yet grounded materials like cotton poplin, wool felt, silk chiffon, and leather to express contrast – between presence and absence, softness and structure. The palette includes muted earth tones, faded blues, and plum accents. Techniques like pigment removal, raw edge finishes, fraying, and delicate feather applications mirror emotional wear, resilience, and quiet transformation.

What’s next?

I’ll be visiting Hungary and China this summer before re-entering the fashion cycle. While I’m seeking an internship where I can learn and contribute, I also want to build my creative identity further – exploring, collaborating, and staying open to unexpected paths that inspire growth.

@viktoria__lai

Isabella Valdez
Lima, Peru
“Nasty Child”

What are the key inspirations behind this collection?

My graduate collection explores the emotional journey of immigration through the lens of childhood. Having moved across countries since age 14, I’ve carried the weight of constant transition from a young age. The collection reflects the duality of this experience: the imaginative resilience of a child alongside the quiet complexities of migration. Silhouettes are playful and exaggerated, evoking curiosity, while a restrained color palette conveys introspection and longing. At its heart is “The Explorer,” a character who journeys the world in search of belonging. Through them, I explore identity, memory, and the ever-shifting meaning of home.

What materials, colours and techniques did you utilise in the creation of this collection?

The collection features a thoughtful mix of organic fibres such as wool and cotton, alongside upcycled synthetic materials like sailcloth. This material blend bridges historical and contemporary influences – drawing from 19th-century children’s wear while introducing modern references through sailing. The contrast between natural and industrial fabrics symbolises the tension between innocence and adaptation in the context of migration. Using sails adds a sense of travel and transformation, both literally and emotionally. The colours are muted and calm, adding a nostalgic vibe that ties back to memory and belonging.

What’s next?

What I love most is drawing and bringing my stories to life on paper. Fashion is something I’m really passionate about, but sometimes the industry can feel a bit surface-level. For me, art has to be part of the process. It’s not just about clothes – it’s about storytelling, emotion, and creating something that feels personal and real. That’s the path I’m trying to follow as a designer.

@Isab3lla__

J.T. Prince
Utah, United States
“Homecoming”

What are the key inspirations behind this collection?

Homecoming was born from the bittersweet nostalgia of revisiting my late grandparents’ farm in Idaho. I spent summers there as a child, helping my grandfather and soaking in a rhythm of life that feels both distant and deeply formative. The collection reflects the complex emotion of remembering those times – not to return to who I was, but to honour how I’ve grown. It’s about grounding in your roots while letting your branches shift with the seasons.

What materials, colours and techniques did you use in the creation of this collection?

I drew from the textures of rural life – tarps, potato sacks, workwear jackets, plastic-covered couches – elevating everyday materials through refined construction. These humble fabrics take on a more couture sensibility, turning the familiar into the poetic. The palette is rooted in neutral earth tones – wheat, tan, dusty blue – with occasional bursts of colour, like wildflowers in a field.

What’s next?

I hope to continue developing as a designer, possibly by working with a maison where I can refine my skills and learn from others. I’m passionate about telling stories through clothes, and I want to keep exploring how fashion can articulate memory, place, and identity.

@jt_prince

Keila Melany Mirmina
Buenos Aires, Argentina
“Oíd Mortales”

What are the key inspirations behind this collection?

My collection is inspired by the contrast between two Argentinas: the working-class suburb where I grew up, and the elite, polished circles of the capital. It tells the story of a rebellious boy infiltrating high society – not to belong, but to expose its absurdity. I drew on references like Argentine polo, equestrian culture, and institutions like the Jockey Club, blended with gaucho silhouettes and subversive symbols of national identity. Irony is key: the feathered crown, for example, represents “the sport of kings” taken to an absurd extreme.

What materials, colours and techniques did you utilise in the creation of this collection?

I worked with materials associated with bourgeois life – leathers, wools, riding gear, and crisp shirting – but twisted them with deconstructed tailoring, queer coding, and playful accents. Saddle-inspired elements, feather embellishments, and manipulated knits carry the narrative. The palette clashes deep tones with sharp blue and white contrasts. Every piece was designed to feel simultaneously elegant and disruptive.

What’s next?

This past year was a rollercoaster of creative highs and lows, but it helped me grow. I want to keep designing, telling meaningful stories, and representing the people and places I come from. Reinvention is part of my journey – I’m ready to keep exploring and see where it takes me.

@keimirmina

Leonardo Iori
Reggio Emilia, Italy
“Sapiens – From Monkey to Monkey”

What are the key inspirations behind this collection?

This collection explores the primal, often hidden nature within humans – the animal instincts masked by social status and civility. I wanted to express how even those in high-ranking, formal positions can carry a wild, violent side beneath the surface. It’s a reflection on the loss of humanity and the raw, sometimes brutal core that still lives within us.

What materials, colours and techniques did you utilise in the creation of this collection?

I contrasted the polished world of formal menswear with chaotic, animalistic energy – pairing wools with clean, tailored techniques like embroidered chalk stripes, against faux fur and aggressive, messy embroideries. The colour palette mixes gloom with bursts of playfulness, creating irony and tension through texture and finish.

What’s next?

I’m excited to collaborate with professionals in the industry while continuing to build my own creative world. My focus is on textile manipulation and embroidery – transforming garments into wearable art that’s both functional and expressive. I want to keep evolving, pushing the boundaries of what clothing can say and do.

@raccattami

Mandula Maczkó
Tata, Hungary
“Dear Roots”

What are the key inspirations behind this collection?

Dear Roots is a tribute to the place that shapes us, even when it feels too difficult to return. This collection blends the rustic beauty of traditional Hungarian peasant wear with the opulence of folk heritage, exploring the emotional tension between village and city life. It reflects my internal conflict – longing to return home while knowing I’ve outgrown it. By weaving my past into modern silhouettes, I confront the disconnection from home while holding onto its influence.

What materials, colours and techniques did you use in the creation of this collection?

I used handwoven fabrics and upcycled my grandmother’s towels and bedsheets – objects deeply rooted in rural Hungarian life. These materials are rich with personal and cultural history. In contrast, I introduced sharp tailoring to represent the modern pace and structure of city living. The colour palette centres on earthy tones, echoing simplicity and nostalgia, while the silhouettes balance softness and structure to reflect cultural duality.

What’s next?

I hope to gain a wide range of new experiences and insights by working within creative teams and embracing different perspectives. While I look forward to growth and exploration, it’s equally important to remain grounded in my own identity and values. I want to build a career that reflects both.

@maczkomandula

Nansen Capici
Rome, Italy
“Silenzio Bianco”

What are the key inspirations behind this collection?

Silenzio Bianco is inspired by Arctic exploration and the emotional distance within family heritage. I drew from the story of the expeditions of Fridtjof Nansen and traditional Inuit clothing, merging it with the rigid world of architecture, which reflects my paternal lineage. The collection explores silence as both a survival mechanism and a personal rebellion – a quiet confrontation between control and vulnerability, warmth and cold.

What materials, colours and techniques did you utilise in the creation of this collection?

I primarily worked with heavyweight materials, starting from traditional fabrics and gradually moving into experimental manipulations and custom prints. These explored the tension between natural Arctic textures, balancing softness and rigidity, warmth and cold. The colour palette follows a similar progression: it begins with icy, desaturated tones and gradually shifts towards warmer hues as the collection unfolds, echoing an emotional and physical journey.

What’s next?

I want to keep investigating the body as a site of both function and feeling. My next steps involve refining my visual language and collaborating with those who see clothing as a form of quiet resistance. I’m drawn to projects that balance technical precision with emotional depth, where design becomes a tool for storytelling rather than decoration.

@nansencapici_

Naomi Guzman Duran
Mexico / Japan / Italy

“La Cold Stare”

What are the key inspirations behind this collection?

This collection is rooted in my personal background. My parents are Mexican, but I was raised in Japan before moving to Italy. I drew inspiration from two traditional coming-of-age ceremonies I experienced: the Japanese Seijin Shiki at age 20, where I wore a long-sleeved kimono, and the Mexican Quinceañera at age 15. The collection fuses elements of both celebrations, blending cultures, memories, and symbolic garments into a unified narrative.

What materials, colours and techniques did you utilise in the creation of this collection?

I used beads and silk threads inspired by both Japanese and Mexican craft traditions. One key technique involved creating fringes by pulling vertical threads from kimono jacquard fabrics. The colour palette draws from the vibrant interiors and painted walls of Mexican homes – bold, joyful, and full of character.

What’s next?

I hope to work between Japan and Europe, serving as a creative bridge between cultures. In the future, I want to develop my own brand – not just in fashion, but also in interior design, creating hotel and café spaces inspired by the same fusion of cultural identities.

@_naominion_

Samuele Pampaloni
Florence, Italy
“for the boys”

What are the key inspirations behind this collection?

This collection was sparked by an online critique labelling my work “too feminine” to be menswear. That judgment stung – but it also pushed me to reflect on shame, identity, and the power of expression. I connected the experience to Pasolini’s Salò, where humiliation enforces control. Instead of conforming, I channelled that pain into creativity. for the boys is my response – a defiant, vulnerable reclamation of voice and freedom. It celebrates the right to exist authentically in art, regardless of gender norms.

What materials, colours and techniques did you utilise in the creation of this collection?

I juxtaposed delicate fabrics like satin, mesh, viscose, and crêpe de chine with structured wools and cottons – mirroring the tension between perceived femininity and masculinity. The neutral colour palette keeps the focus on silhouette and texture, while construction techniques combine soft, draped forms with sharp tailoring. This balance aims to blur and question traditional menswear codes, making space for vulnerability within strength.

What’s next?

I’m searching for an internship that offers both challenge and mentorship. I want to learn from real studio dynamics, contribute meaningfully, and gain practical skills. Alongside this, I hope to keep crafting one-off pieces that reflect my voice and continue exploring fashion as a tool for identity and transformation.

@pampalonisam

Sape (Sofia Sapena)
Asunción, Paraguay
“A deadly occasion”

What are the key inspirations behind this collection?

This collection began with a question my suited-up lawyer grandfather once asked me: “Would you wear that – if the airplane just might fall?” It sparked a reflection on how little value we place on things today. I drew inspiration from the evolution of air travel uniforms (pilots, air hostesses), classic menswear codes (like those of the Duke of Windsor), and ironic, literal references to flying. It’s about mortality, elegance, and absurdity all colliding in midair.

What materials, colours and techniques did you use in the creation of this collection?

I explored unconventional fabric treatments in a menswear context – beading, printed leather with vintage luggage stickers, and towels replacing wool suiting. Pinstripes were cord-filled for depth, and classic poplins and heavy wools grounded the silhouettes. The colour palette remained polished and restrained – creams and tailoring tones – to evoke a strange, almost heavenly calm amid the tragic air-travel narrative.

What’s next?

I’d love to expand the collection through storytelling – developing more accessories and creating a small book that introduces each character, each emotion, each critique embedded in the work. Personally, I want to keep learning and growing, with the dream of eventually transitioning into costume design.

@sofisapena

Sophia Marais Ostervold
USA / Norway
“Gothic Sailors”

What are the key inspirations behind this collection?

This collection merges my passion for competitive offshore sailing with the drama and symbolism of Gothic architecture. Growing up racing sailboats, I’ve always felt the intense spirituality of the sea – being at the mercy of nature, like being in God’s hands. In coastal towns, churches often hold model boats as prayers for those at sea, blending sport and religion. I wanted to explore that tension, while also challenging the masculinity of sailing gear. Gothic Sailors offers a feminine, technical, and architectural reinterpretation – gear for extreme sport, imbued with softness, strength, and reverence.

What materials, colours and techniques did you utilise in the creation of this collection?

I used waterproof technical fabrics to channel the durability of offshore sailing gear, combined with sheer textiles and lace to evoke sails and Gothic windows. Stainless steel pulleys, fiberglass wire, nautical rope, and waterproof zips added structure and reinforced the nautical framework. These contrasts allowed the collection to fuse rugged functionality with the ornate, architectural beauty of Gothic design – bringing drama, delicacy, and power into one wearable world.

What’s next?

This summer I’ll be racing foiling sailboats across the US, continuing to live the inspiration behind Gothic Sailors. I’m currently looking for my next job in fashion design – ideally back in Paris, but I’m open to wherever hard work takes me. I created every part of this collection by hand, and I’m excited to keep pushing this concept further. Made for sailors by sailors.

@sophia.marais.ostervold

Veronica Bezzeccheri
Sirolo, Italy
“I lost my father.”

What are the key inspirations behind this collection?

The collection draws from deeply personal and sculptural references. Pattern construction was inspired by Max Lamb’s round bathroom installations, while iconography and material cues came from my late father’s fisherman wardrobe – think rugged functionality and emotional resonance. Rubber ducks also feature as symbolic, playful anchors within a heavier emotional narrative.

What materials, colours and techniques did you use in the creation of this collection?

I mixed traditional menswear wools and workwear textiles with techniques borrowed from scuba gear, including seam taping and liquid plastic edging. Knitwear plays a key role too. The palette is electric blue, navy, cream, green, orange, rust, and yellow – equal parts industrial and intimate.

What’s next?

I plan to expand this project beyond a capsule into a full collection, supported by dedicated photo shoots and media outreach. “I lost my father” feels like the beginning of something larger – a creative and emotional space I want to keep exploring.

@veronicabezzeccheri