With his graduate RCA collection, Non-Object, Cho focused in his message on redefining the role of a couture designer in today’s landscape. “Stereotypically, ‘couture’ in its traditional form refers to how the garments fit on the individual client, but in my opinion, the contemporary approach to couture is based around making garments with the understanding of a modern woman’s needs and ideas. My goal is to figure out a new made-to-order method, and present their way of life through my collection.”
In his process as a womenswear designer, Jaden Cho thinks about what it means to ‘objectify’ women. “There are a lot of preconceptions in objects. People tend to bestow objects with their own ideas of what they are. I try to use improperly perceived objects to express this paradox,” explains the designer. A big influence on the aim to question this mechanism were the words of the British-Indian sculptor Anish Kapoor, who once said: “I am interested in that part of material, which is not material because it seems to me that equivalent with every history of material, there is a history of immaterial.” Furthermore, Kapoor’s conceptual art works, known for their sleek and elegant forms, became a visual inspiration for the garments, both in terms of the silhouettes and fabrication. A reflective sequined ‘two-piece’ dress paired with a matching bucket hat is one of the most explicit nods to the artist.