There is a clear meditation on ‘blackness’ and the black body in Grace’s work, a meditation that is effective and radical in the context of London, where the fashion world is hopelessly unrepresentative of the rich multiculturalism that the city enjoys. However, with this collection, Grace goes beyond ‘blackness’ being just ‘non-whiteness,’ or ‘non-whiteness’ being just ‘blackness’, and explores the further layers of race and ethnicity that can exist in fashion and all visual culture, like the colonial and quasi-ethnic narratives between the South Asian and African continent. Researching for the collection, she looked into the particular history of Ethiopian migration to India – a community that, through centuries, worked their way up from the bottom of society, and ended as regal families in the country (and is still traceable in the Siddi community of Gujarat and Andra Pradesh). Race, then, becomes increasingly complexified as it clashes with geography, religion and trans-national movement, beyond that of colonial Europe. For the presentation, they cast a mix of half Indian/Pakistani/British models, some of whom had never modelled before. “It was important to us to choose models that could bring out the story,” Joyce explains.