In an industry as fast-paced and hype-based as fashion, it’s tempting to perpetually push for more. Maybe your brand went viral on social media, completely at random, piquing interest from a retailer. Or maybe, like so many others, it doesn’t feel like you’re moving quickly enough. Martan, for example, has appeared on multiple red carpets since its first ready-to-wear collection in 2022. But they’re only scaling now. Co-founder and Commercial Director Eugénie Mulier explains: “It takes time for the customer to trust you. They want to feel the fabric, try on the design and see consistency [across collections]. We knew we were ready to scale once we established our customer base and operations, so we could quickly adapt to the market.”
In the words of Lisa Bergstrand, founder of Bergstrand Consultancy, which helps fashion brands with sustainability practices. “Not every opportunity to grow or scale is worth taking. Focus on expanding in ways that align with your values.”
Foster a relationship with your suppliers
Because of Martan’s circularity, establishing a reliable supply chain “was a process,” Mulier says. They work with selected hotels and laundries, which supply 100% cotton bedsheets and tablecloths (discarded by luxury hotels due to small defects) and have three EU-based suppliers for the rest of their production process. Transparency, respect for deadlines and close collaboration are important. “Because, usually, fabric comes from rolls and is pristine. In our case, [suppliers] have to work around the defects, which is a time-consuming and manual process.”
“Traceability is key to ensuring that scaling won’t dilute your brand identity,” adds Bergstrand. “Map your supply chain from the start and establish a Supplier Code of Conduct before scaling. Choose your partners and factories carefully and visit them before placing any orders.” Production manager Ossi Lehtonen stresses the importance of building “a relationship with a manufacturer based on trust and transparency.” Align on desired quality standards, production terms, budgets and timelines (which is crucial, notes Lehtonen, “as young brands are often put last when reserving production slots”). But also get a feel for the supplier’s company culture, communication style and workplace atmosphere. Share your design wishes via technical files, patterns and prototypes, while “using the knowledge and facilities of the factory.” Lehtonen adds: “A common mistake is not planning enough for bigger production volumes when orders (finally) come in. It’s important to scale slowly and steadily, reflecting on your current resources.”
“A common mistake is not planning enough for bigger production volumes when orders (finally) come in. It’s important to scale slowly and steadily, reflecting on your current resources.”
Don’t become a messy workplace
This applies when growing your team too. “If you have previously worked for a luxury fashion house (and similar to my experience, worked long hours in a sometimes toxic work environment), you have the chance to set your standards,” Bergstrand says. But where do you start? According to several brand owners and (former) in-house staff, fashion’s emerging workplaces become toxic – or “messy,” as one co-owner described it – because HR policies are an afterthought. The lines between work and passion are blurred, and first hires are often informal (friends, unpaid interns, and so on). Establishing a decision-making framework, Code of Ethics and organisational structure (and, when hiring freelancers, a clear brief) can protect your brand and its employees. “However close you are, businesses are not families, and employment is ultimately transactional,” says one fashion brand’s former Managing Director. “Issue employment contracts you understand and have robust policies in place. It’s an initial investment that will create much-needed clarity and security.”
Explore which form of funding is best for you
Obviously, you’ll need investments to scale. Some fashion brands seek financial support from their network, small business loans, angel investors, venture capital funding or crowdfunding. Martan recently launched a share funding campaign, which “felt right because we want to be transparent and inclusive,” says Mulier. It attracted small investors “who are proud ambassadors” and bigger shareholders “who come with certain expertise and occupy advisory roles.” Investments like these are legally complex and best suited for brands like Martan, with some organic growth and a long-term business plan. “For initial investments, young brands should be careful with investors,” says Lehtonen. “A 50k investment, enough for [the first] season, can be tempting. But fashion companies are rarely profitable at this point.” Commonly, founders rely on side hustles to support themselves and their brand in its early stages. “For the first year and a half, as co-founders, we didn’t pay ourselves. We were all working freelance on the side,” Mulier says.
“When introducing a seasonal style, we order about 30 pieces. If it sells, we can easily reorder in higher quantities and meet industry-standard margins. That’s how we experiment.”
(Directly) connect with your consumer
Similar to brands like Eckhaus Latta, Sandy Liand and Avavav, Martan uses direct-to-consumer channels, including e-commerce and pop-up stores. These still require an investment (you’ll need a solid e-commerce platform with product photography and descriptions, e-fulfilment, customer service, digital marketing and more). But the obvious perk of DTC – especially for small-scale, sustainable brands – is the close connection to your target audience. “When introducing a seasonal style, we order about 30 pieces. If it sells, we can easily reorder in higher quantities and meet industry-standard margins. That’s how we experiment,” Mulier says. Similarly, Avavav’s consumers can pre-order new collections at a discount, “which helps reduce both excess inventory and waste,” says Bergstrand.
Expand your reach beyond the product listings
For a long time, retailers played a key role in expansion – offering a more steady stream of revenue. These days, retailers like SSENSE or LN-CC also have rich content platforms that can boost a brand’s exposure. Emerging brands often collaborate with content creators. “But the forms partnerships can take are endless,” explains Tessa Griffith, Director of Talent and Brand Partnerships at DH-PR. Brands can partner with influencers, celebrities or artists, create exclusive collections (like for SSENSE, Salomon or Serax), tap into pop culture phenomena (Loewe’s Challengers tee) or, in the case of Telfar Clemens, design an Olympic kit. The main benefit here is “cash and exposure,” Griffith says. To protect your brand identity, she recommends strategic consideration. “Will it bring visibility in markets or with consumers we’re trying to reach? Is it the type of exposure we want? Do we have the time and infrastructure to do this properly?”
Stay true to your brand identity
Sure, that’s relatively easy when running a small, passion-driven operation, but as your team grows, alongside your list of suppliers, collaborators and people to answer to, it’s a dance to marry responsibilities and your creative essence. It’s even more challenging with fashion’s endless seasons and an insatiable appetite for newness, but it can be done. Based on conventional fashion wisdom, crafting luxury garments from discarded bedsheets doesn’t seem scalable, but Martan makes it work. The trick is not to rush into things. Ahead of scaling, clarify your core identity, values and how this translates into the pillars of your business. “Define red lines that can’t be crossed in the name of growth,” Bergstrand says – meaning you might not meet certain industry standards (like margins, collections per year or items per collection). Bergstrand adds: “Ensure that all stakeholders are aligned with your core ethos and values before scaling. It’s inevitably complex – and even more difficult if an investor wants to ’10X’.”
