Collaboration over competition

Why now? What drew you to collaborate with each other at this particular moment?

Nicholas Daley: Me and Kopi have been good friends since studying together at Central Saint Martins over 10 years ago. Daiki Suzuki, founder of Engineered Garments, invited us to host our pop-up shops at the Nepenthes NY store together, and it felt like the perfect opportunity to collaborate on some key products that reflect our design approaches, our cultures, and our shared appreciation of craft.

Kozaburo: As independent menswear designers, our shared background and brand trajectory have put us in contact many times, but this was the first time we’ve been able to collaborate on a project. 

Fashion often frames designers as competitors – how does working together change that dynamic for you?

Nicholas: I’m still constantly learning about different techniques, processes, and craftsmanship. Kozaburo brings such unique fabrications and methods into his work, and it was inspiring to share ideas and learn from each other.

Kozaburo: Nicholas and I share many interests, one being karate. In martial arts, competition is rooted in exchanging techniques and learning from your interaction with one another, as opposed to a ‘winner takes all’ approach. That philosophy of exchange drove this project, allowing our design languages to synthesise into something stronger together.

On a nuts-and-bolts level, how did you actually work together?

Nicholas: We shared sketches, jumped on video calls, and exchanged images that resonated with both of us. But my favourite part was vintage shopping together in New York – we spent hours going through old baseball caps, bouncing ideas off each other, and just enjoying doing something we both love.

Kozaburo: There were certainly some late-night calls, but the highlight was getting together in person to thrift materials for our collaborative caps and discuss our mutual interests and design philosophies.

What role do you think collaboration plays in strengthening communities – whether that’s design communities, cultural communities, or audiences wearing the clothes?

Nicholas: I hope this collaboration shows our communities that working together is such an important part of growth, both personally and professionally. The launch at Nepenthes New York was a great moment to bring people together under one roof – it felt like a celebration of design and friendship.

Kozaburo: Collaboration strengthens community by connecting audiences across backgrounds. Many of Nicholas’ designs are rooted in his Scottish-Jamaican heritage, while mine come from my history with Japan and America. Projects like this bring those worlds together through shared interests in music, fashion, and craft.

Do you see collaborations as one-off sparks of creativity, or as seeds for longer-term, evolving dialogues between designers?

Nicholas: For me, collaborations are a vital part of the brand. They allow us to explore new design directions and share those with our communities. My favourite collaborations are the ones that develop over multiple seasons, building momentum and meaning over time. With Kozaburo, I hope we continue to work together to keep creating exciting products our communities can connect with.

Kozaburo: Collaboration is a long-term game – it broadens your horizons and goes hand in hand with sustaining a legacy. Working with someone you respect builds a foundation that makes everyone involved stronger.

While the Nepenthes shop is now closed, the collab can still be bought online over at Nicholas Daley’s webshop!