Representing the creative future

FIT MFA 2024: Celebrating Unity Beyond Boundaries

In light of a polarising election, the FIT students offered a vision of unity

This year’s FIT Show transcended the confines of its 300 Seventh Avenue venue, reaching far beyond any geographical borders. Aptly titled ‘Beyond’, it showcased 13 of the school’s designers in a celebration of limitless creativity. The collections drew inspiration from the designers’ own lived experiences, unique cultures, and heritages. Armed with the skills gained over the two-year course, the show was a strong display of youthful talent. As the nation faces growing division ahead of a polarising election, the students offered a vision of unity.

The show’s underlying message of harmony in diversity resonated throughout, reminding the audience of the universal language of beauty and resilience.

In the official press release, the students emphasised the profound personal significance of their collections, describing them as a “testament to the richness of individual stories, woven together into a tapestry of innovation and inclusivity – from the vibrant hues of South Asian embroidery to the minimalist elegance of Scandinavian lines.” As they described it, the show was an active invitation to “Every stitch tells a story of courage, heritage, and the boundless spirit of creativity that unites us all.” Here is a closer look at the pioneering collections and personal journeys of the 13 talented graduates from FIT’s MFA class of 2024.

Ashleen Tuteja

According to Ashleen Tuteja, the formula for brilliant design is simple, requiring just two key ingredients: form and emotion. Her collection centres around human feelings of empathy and social responsibility. Drawing inspiration from monolithic structures, the exaggerated silhouettes feature broad, imposing shapes that have a powerfully intimidating visual impact. Despite these conceptual roots, the Indian-born menswear designer ensures that technical functionality remains paramount, “I’ve learned that successful design goes beyond aesthetics and must address the specific needs of its audience.” Tuteja works with high-performance materials to create outerwear pieces that provide practical durability.

Brunela Ramirez

Titled Collection 0, Brunela Ramirez invites us to journey back to the beginning and explore life’s fundamental questions. “My concept was to create a visual interpretation of how humans are shaped by experiences, the people we share moments with, and the spaces we live in.” With a philosophical approach to design, she delves into the mysteries of existence, humanity, and gender expression. This curiosity extends beyond her inspiration into her technique, exploring new alternatives in construction, printing and textile making.

Bryan Barrientos

Peruvian-American designer Bryan Barrientos is no stranger to the fashion spotlight – his work has already been featured in Harper’s Bazaar. He takes inspiration from the past to design for the future, using traditional couture techniques. Designing eveningwear for the modern woman, he subverts these methods and challenges their conventional barriers. Titled Juana, his collection is a gracious tribute to his mother and her journey as a 19-year-old Peruvian immigrant. Reflecting on the risks she took, he says, “My mother’s story of courage and resilience is the driving force behind my creative exploration.”

Cindy Qianqian Dong

Cindy Qianqian Dong’s collection is an ode to nature and its transient beauty. By harnessing cutting-edge technology and 3D printing, she aims to capture and immortalise this fleeting essence and turn it into wearable art. The fluidity and draping of the fabrics mirror the graceful movement of water across the body, reflecting a deep appreciation for life’s beauty. Her collection challenges the boundaries between natural form and human form.

Eunhae Cho

Eunhae Cho honours her multicultural heritage by using her designs to celebrate personal stories and individual histories within her community. Drawing inspiration from fossils, she likens their gradual formation over time to the intricate layers of humankind. “My goal was to transform daily essentials into more adaptable pieces,” she says. With her background in pattern-making and sewing, Cho handcrafted each pattern herself, “Creating the twisted sleeve pattern required paper draping, and multiple muslin fittings on a live model helped me perfect the prototype. I hand-distressed some wool and cotton panels using different knives to create various effects and tears, and some panels were layered over solid ones to create contrast and strength.”

Natalia Robles Oteíza

Tessellated Resistance is inspired by Chile’s long tradition of social resistance. The garments in the collection are crafted from geometric tessellations symbolising interconnection, both in the natural world and in human communities. Oteíza’s extensive work experience shines through in her use of 3D modelling and zero-waste pattern-making techniques, reflecting her dedication to sustainability and pursuit of innovation. Looking to life after FIT she says, “I am working on ready-to-wear zero and low-waste womenswear, as well as taking commissions for custom couture pieces using my upcycled textile waste techniques.”

Talia Abbe

For Abbe, this collection was an opportunity to make a meaningful statement on mental health, drawing from her own experiences to create designs that resonate with others facing similar challenges. Her garments exude a childlike charm take a playful approach to design. She uses neon latex to experiment with volume and create cartoon-like silhouettes, juxtaposing this with slim-fitting tight tailoring. This coexistence imitates the smothering nature of anxiety from build-up to release. “This collection’s hyperbolic visuals seek to destigmatise mental health through humour and playfulness.”

Urvi Selarka

Duality is at the heart of Urvi Selarka’s thesis collection, which explores the delicate balance between structure and fluidity. Titled Nebula, the complex garments take you on a journey of cosmic wonder. Known for her kaleidoscopic creations, the womenswear designer and 3D artist uses innovative pattern-making and technical draping to sculpt striking silhouettes that appear to defy gravity. “The collection is meant to feel almost weightless – as if the garments are floating, yet each piece has a strong presence, giving the wearer a sense of confidence.”

Yixuan Apple Zhao

Yixuan Apple Zhao’s graduate collection Seika boldly confronts societal norms, shattering outdated constraints on identity and self-expression. Inspired by the vibrant aesthetics of drag performances and the rebellious spirit of the punk movement, the designs are a harmonious clash of prints, textures, and fabrics. This collection serves as a tribute to alter egos, both past and present, celebrating all sizes, genders and cultures.

Yixuan Nie

Yan Xia is a heartfelt love letter to Yixuan Nie’s homeland of Beijing. “I’m very grateful that I was able to convey a story of genuine emotions, which cannot be copied.” Nie’s collection masterfully blends traditional Chinese culture with modern fashion through an array of specialised techniques, including flocking, printing, and handcrafted sculpting. Each garment serves as a visual chronicle of a day in the life of a Beijing local, using Nie’s personal photography as stimuli. The result is a collection which offers a strikingly fresh alternative to the stereotypical Western portrayal of China. For Nie, this collection is just the beginning, “There are many more stories I wish to tell, so I will continue to extend this series. I hope to spread the Chinese stories I see to a broader world.”

Yoon Seo Lee

South Korean streetwear designer Yoon Seo Lee finds inspiration in the often-overlooked details of everyday life. Her seemingly practical and straightforward designs subtly conceal intricate elements that escape immediate notice. Lee’s collection, Smugglers, delves into the different belongings people consider essential when travelling and the unique ways they pack them.  Expanding on her inspiration, she says, “I also drew on my own childhood memory of a family trip when I was almost caught trying to bring along our pet lizard.”

Ziling Dong

Ziling Dong’s ‘Harmonious Collision’ is a conversation about womanhood through the lens of slow fashion. Drawing from an extensively diverse range of inspirations, including body meridians, anatomy, and innovative furniture design, her collection beautifully articulates the contrasting elements that define femininity. The structured fabrics and minimalist silhouettes offer a thought-provoking reflection on these complexities, presenting a harmonious vision of strength and elegance. Talking about her time at FIT, Dong says, “I have learned to embrace different perspectives and appreciate various cultures and aesthetics, discovering new ways to view the world.”