Parsons MFA 2024: Technology in service of sustainability

With new leadership, students were encouraged to further develop their design practice within an industry context. “One project that really pushed me out of my comfort zone was a competition with Solstiss lace,” says knitwear designer Patrick Taylor. Despite finding this a challenge, Taylor says he “was determined to integrate the lace into my knitwear,” eventually winning the competition. Other projects included trialling unusual research methods, asking students to take an immersive approach by exploring different neighbourhoods in New York.

When it came to the final show extremes intertwined with eccentricities. While some reimagined their past, others channelled their art towards cultural change. What does it mean to be a woman? Portuguese designer Margarida Feijão created a collection to highlight the female experience, developing hair-like textiles after losing her own. “I knew that I wanted to challenge myself in conversations that normally don’t exist in the fashion scene,” she tells us. “I think the best advice I got in the MFA was to use my work as a medium for self-healing.” Others were advised to “pay attention to details,” and perhaps best of all, “stop talking about it and just do it.”

Following their graduation this year’s class are heading towards more alternative fashion paths, with Kishan S. Tehara driving research in sustainable design through his AI pattern development project. Having received funding from The New School, Kishan and his partner are exploring “How AI can predict the future adaptation of outdoor garments based on UN climate change predictions.”

As the thirteenth generation steps into the world, the new cohort suggests that Cuba and Sagio have taken the course in a fresh direction. The two programme directors themselves come from Peruvian and Colombian backgrounds and specialise in social psychology and indigenous communities. Parsons has always been known for a different approach and creative freedom under course director and founder Shelley Fox. This hasn’t changed, but the future also looks more mindful of the broader impact of fashion.

S. Tehara (Kishan)

After a visit to Julius (the oldest gay bar in New York), Kishan Tehara set about designing his final collection entitled ‘All These Arid Places.’  Having studied BA Fashion Print at Central St Martins, Kishan came to Parsons searching for a change of scenery. Bolstered by the Geoffrey Beene Scholarship he spent his MA refining his concept ‘MYOG,’ otherwise known as ‘Make Your Own Garments.’ The approach includes zero-waste pattern instructions, which he is currently further developing with partner Jakob Sitter. Their research project “explores how AI can predict the future adaptation of outdoor garments based on UN climate change predictions,” Kishan explains, “and the second phase involves creating open-source MYOG kits for future garment needs, where access may be limited.” Post-graduation Kishan is uncertain about the future, yet he is guided by his quest to “push the boundaries of apparel” through sustainability. “In a year or so, I aim to pursue a PhD,” he describes, “but in the meantime, I have several projects lined up and am looking forward to more.”

Liying Zheng

Describing herself as a ‘chronicler,’ Liying Zheng captures the impermanence of daily life. Taking inspiration from architecture, photography and furniture, for her MFA collection Liying seeks to record the transience of ordinary moments and momentary emotions. Her work is informed by her long education in the arts. Having grasped the basics of drawing and painting in a Chinese art school, Liying moved abroad to study graphic design. After mastering different disciplines, she settled on fashion. “The traditional creation mode of 3D was more attractive to me” she explains. The result is a collection with an eclectic mix of colours and fabrics. “Different fabrics bring out a great variety of emotions with their unique texture and thickness,” says Liying. Her work is a summary of her experiences and skills, “like memory fragments” sewn together.

Margarida Feijão 

For Portuguese designer Margarida Feijão, fashion offers a deep exploration of the female experience and her cultural heritage. “What brought me to Parsons was the part of the course where you focus on social change and justice,” she explains. Her work offers a critical social commentary on themes of oppression, sexualisation and restrictive identities imposed on women. While looking for inspiration Margarida turned to Portuguese architecture and photography.  Artur Pastor’s depiction of women in diverse roles rooted her collection in female history, allowing her to create “wearable sculptures reflecting the evolution of women’s roles.” Fine yarns fall over exaggerated hourglass proportions symbolising Margarida’s personal experience with hair loss and femininity, while plaster wearables lay fixed like armoured shields. “I think the best advice I got in the MFA was to use the things that bring me down in life into my work, and use them as a medium for self-healing,” she describes. “Sometimes that means that not everyone is going to understand it, and that’s the beauty of it.”

Mohan Li

What do you picture when you think of Chinese youth culture? In her final collection, Mohan Li captured its essence with oversized, effortless ensembles. Having completed her menswear BA at The Beijing Institute of Fashion and Technology, for her MA Mohan explored how Chinese society shapes the thoughts and dress of the younger generation. Tiny stars are scattered throughout while larger slogans such as ‘all my shattered dreams’ stand centrefold. Smaller details are important to Mohan, who frequently uses embroidery techniques to blend traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design. Mohan creates for those who are both stylish and low maintenance, perhaps sporting tousled hair and a few pimple patches. Comfort is key here.

Patrick Taylor

‘No Easy Way Down’ is the title of Patrick Taylor’s collection, highlighting the duality of childhood. Inspired by memories of skiing and sailing with his family, Partick seeks to contrast the intense nature of competitive sports with the fun and freedom they can bring. Soft textured knits and playful proportions complete the collection, while nostalgic hues hark back to old family photographs. “I wanted to develop a full knitwear collection,” he explains, “to break through the preconceived notions of some and demonstrate that knitwear can offer just as much depth, silhouette, and impact as other forms of making.” As knitwear is Patrick’s speciality, he was drawn to the MFA programme at Parsons for “its dedicated MFA knitting studio, with unrestricted access to a range of machines.” Currently working as a childrenswear designer at Kindred Kids, he hopes to join a knitwear design team in the future. Yet “the ultimate aim is launching my own brand, a family line”

Sijia Lyu

In ‘Anachorism,’ Chinese-born designer Sijia Lyu revisited her family memories and multicultural upbringing. Often inspired by nostalgia, her work seeks to explore the relationship between body and fabric by transforming personal belongings into wearable garments. Following her Parsons BFA, Sijia spent some time as a fashion assistant before returning to the MFA programme to reignite her design practice. “It was a time for asking myself questions and reflecting as a designer,” she explains. Though challenging, she followed her tutor’s advice: “If you feel lost, always go back to where you started.” Post-graduation, Sijia is planning to launch her own brand alongside a collaborator and friend with whom she has worked before.

Jiaying Wang

Jiaying Wang uses menswear as a means to challenge traditional gender norms and explore alternative ideas of beauty. While society often associates men with strength and stability, her designs embrace a softer, more nuanced masculinity. Through her label KAEi WANG, she aims to break stereotypes and create a “soft but dandy men’s figure,” blending sophistication with gentleness. Her journey into menswear began as a rebellious response to the emphasis on womenswear during her undergraduate studies. Jiaying wanted to refashion masculinity and push the boundaries of conventional design.

Yue (Cassie) Xu 

Chinese-born designer Yue (Cassie) Xu built a collection inspired by the everyday home objects we often overlook. Her gender inclusive garments question and explore what we wear and how we experience it. Sitting in the intersection of artistry and prêt-à-porter practicality, Yue’s collection features artisanal techniques intended to engage the wearer’s senses. Yue’s knowledge of handcraft techniques is complimented by her understanding of digital design, with CLO 3D software being her speciality. Alongside this, Yue specialises in pattern cutting and knitwear which provides a strong foundation to her creations. She is able to conceptualise pieces that are both innovative and functional, drawing inspiration from sources that are often overlooked.

Yunhao Liao  

Yunhao Liao creates tailored pieces inspired by utilitarianism and structuralism. Delving into the realm of avant-garde fashion, for his final collection Yunhao chose subtle yet exaggerated forms. Triangulated shoulders are extended while transparent skirts glide over the floor. Elegance underpins his design ethos, as does comfort. Yunhao favours natural, skin friendly fabrics such as cotton, linen, silk, wool and cashmere. As a designer, his goal is to create timeless pieces and transcend the ever-changing fashion cycles through their unique appeal.

Ziqi Zhen 

Ziqi’s designs are an extension of her childhood fantasy world. Having completed her undergraduate degree at Parsons, for her MFA Ziqi looked to her past. An eclectic blend of ball-jointed dolls and flora fuse to form a futuristic collection rooted in nature.  As an adult without her imaginary escape world, design functions as Ziqi’s new mode of self-expression. Everything is imbued with her spirit, which she finds difficult to express outwardly. Favouring unconventional materials, Ziqi uses bones, resin and 3D printed material to realise her creations. After graduation, the designer hopes to gain some creative experience before starting her own label.