KNWLS on redefining the designer-manufacturer relationship with ECCO Leather

The collaboration with ECCO Leather and 1 Granary marks a chance for KNWLS to push their gritty, tactile vision beyond familiar boundaries and tap directly into the processes behind the materials. The couple are part of the ongoing collaboration reinforcing the thread between design and production. Invited to work closely with ECCO’s in-house teams, a select group of designers will work alongside what Charlotte calls “the leading factory in the tanning world.”

That is exactly how the duo understands their time at the facilities: a privilege. As Charlotte puts it:

“It’s so important for designers to work directly with the supply chain; it’s where, through experimentation and collaboration together, you end up with the most interesting outcome.”

In the productive process of fashion, the designer often hoards the credit; however, “the factories are the ones with years and years of experience,” Charlotte adds, “they’re the ones with techniques we may not even imagine. It’s when you put the creative brain with the technical side that you get the most interesting results.”

This insight into production directly informs the creative process – a reality the duo discovered through their own experience. In fashion education, where the focus often leans toward form, function is frequently neglected. Alexandre explains, “When you’re in school, you don’t have the connections or the quantities to work with factories. Once you have access to it, it’s a different way to work.” Direct engagement with production gives designers insight into material limits, costs, and sustainable choices, allowing them to know the limits of their creativity.

Beyond creative achievement, working closely with their supply chain affords a designer a logistical bliss. The ECCO collaboration proves how productive the relationship between a designer and a manufacturer can be. So much of fashion is held in its materiality; witnessing it first-hand allows for productive communication. “We’re learning quite a bit about how to communicate an idea by seeing the actual machinery that makes it happen,” Alexandre says. Charlotte adds, “There’s an immediacy to it; there’s no having to wait for sampling. Especially for products like leather, when so much of it is the feel and touch of it.”

Looking to capitalise on the endless possibilities the collaboration allows them, the duo pushed their technical boundaries. Following a brief that provided them with four concepts – biker, 4D, burnt, and shadows – the result is a decisive foray into trompe l’oeil. “We worked with leather to transform it into something that doesn’t resemble it. Print, perforation, washings, sprays, and every other technology ECCO had available was used to emulate material like knitwear, plaids, or argyle – anything we felt related to our brand.”

Looking to “confuse people to what they’re looking at”, the duo ran the technical gambit. One particular focus was biker gloves, their organic wear and tear replicated through the innovative machinery at ECCO Leather. “We used embossed plates to create a ribbed texture, then we played around with sprays, then buffed and polished it,” Charlotte says.

“Discovering new techniques inspires us, and for that, we need to find factories that are as passionate as we are about their work.” – KNWLS

Working directly with their supply chain means they can find the right people to match their energy – of all people, Charlotte and Alexandre know the power of a good pairing. “Discovering new techniques inspires us, and for that, we need to find factories that are as passionate as we are about their work,” they say, finishing each other’s sentences.

The commitment to work alongside their manufacturers isn’t just a creative concern; it’s an intelligent business strategy that has afforded them the success they currently enjoy. As Charlotte points out, in a saturated market, “experimentation for young brands is incredibly important; it allows them to find their signature, what’s going to set them apart from others.”And stand out they have. Since 2017, the duo has carved a distinct niche for themselves in the industry. Their skin-tight, barely-there, patterned sets have become staples on the streets of London and the K-pop stages of Seoul alike.

Femininity tastes different under the KNWLS vision; all its sweetness is replaced by a biting acidity. Unique fabric treatments have become synonymous with the brand’s subversion. Their last fall/winter collection featured interestingly pebbled leather in oversized jackets and tight tops, while in the most recent season, an array of mutely toned leather was piped to emulate the look of armour.

With each collection, their technical catalogue evolves. After all, as Charlotte puts it, growth is what propels them forward. “Every season, we always push ourselves in terms of discovering new techniques and new ways of doing things because that’s something that inspires us and drives us.”

“The more that the brand grows, the less time we have for experimenting.” – KNWLS

While their design language thrives on experimentation, the duo is also navigating the complexities of a growing brand, where the need for commercial viability often conflicts with creative exploration. As Alexandre points out, growth can be a double-edged sword. “The more that the brand grows, the less time we have for experimenting. We try to find the balance between creating a product that’s commercial and still taking time to explore new ideas and techniques.”

They’re not fazed by growing pains, the relationship they’ve built with their supply chain is not something they’d give up lightly. “We still do a lot in the studio, and every season we oversee the development of production. Charlotte and I always take the time to come in person and see the machinery directly.”

“That’s why opportunities like this are so important; outside of it, it’s quite expensive to experiment with factories directly,” he adds, underscoring their enthusiasm. The 1 Granary X ECCO Leather collaboration offers a glimpse into a future not yet fully realised in the industry – one where designers and manufacturers work in perfect harmony.