Valentin Lessner on winning the Mercedes-Benz Sustainability Prize 2022

Mercedes-Benz has been a long-time supporter of the festival, backing up talents led by sustainability and innovative thinking; “A need for sustainable development is a core goal for both worlds, fashion and automotive. As a partner of the fashion industry for the past 27 years, it is important to us to align with cultural changes and support names that inspire creativity and sustainable innovation,” Julia Hofmann, Head of Branded Entertainment & Brand Partnerships at Mercedes-Benz explained. What is the Sustainability Prize looking for in a designer? “A responsible approach to design is the main value we look for in our partners,” Hofmann pointed out.

This year’s winner, Valentin Lessner received a €20,000 grant, mentoring, and a space to showcase their work at the Mercedes-Benz Showroom. Asking Julia Hofmann what were the elements that lead to Lessner’s win she said: “Through balancing craftsmanship in bespoke pieces, mixed with highly reproducible items, Valentin presented several different approaches to sustainable thinking that embody the key values the prize stands for.”

We sat with the Lessner and asked them why craftsmanship and upcycling are important, how they wish to develop their label and what were the key takeaways from their experience at Hyères.

What has your journey towards fashion been like so far? 

My grandparents had a bespoke tailoring atelier in Bavaria that somehow interested me when I was younger, not always tailoring, but more the idea of creating wearable artefacts. One-of-a-kind pieces were present at flea markets where I spent every weekend, trying to find interesting garments or objects. My first attempts to make fashion were with deadstock or scraps I found there to create pieces of clothing learning to sew and make patterns through YouTube videos. Luckily, this changed when I studied fashion and communication design, extending my multidisciplinary approach to fashion.

What was the inspiration behind your collection and work in general?

My collection “Resurrection” [Ultra Ripam Alpina] is about confronting my Bavarian roots and my personal tailoring family heritage in a contemporary context with the approach of giving back to craftsmanship in today’s fast-paced society.

As I mostly design based on emotion and the effort to create a visual universe, the overall aesthetic can be compared with probably a metal or hardcore concert in the Bavarian alps and a melancholic and nostalgic indulgence about the past and the desire for innovation and progress in the present and the future.

Your work has a strong sense of heritage and craftsmanship. Why do you think these are important values for a designer today?

I feel like with all the benefits that industrialization and globalization brought us, we sometimes tend to lose track of the consequences of our consumerist behaviours. Paying tribute to craftsmanship in a contemporary way, such as an artisanal crafting technique that has been developed over many generations, simply makes sense to me. It is important to remember where things come from and also respect the human individuals behind them.

What drew you into researching folk references and adjusting them to a modern context?

Bavaria is very rich in cultural heritage, with often a rough attitude that I feel is fitting to my aesthetic. I like to use references like this in a more product-based way, as it gives my creations a deeper and personal meaning.

“When it comes to larger numbers, I still would like to continue using seasonal leftovers or deadstock. There is so much deadstock around and trying to create a well-made product that is meant to last for years.” – Valentin Lessner

Is it hard to build a brand driven by sustainability? If yes, in what way?

Sustainability is something hard to define. I feel like it‘s also ironic sometimes. If we have to be really true to ourselves, the only correct answer to being fully sustainable is to stop producing anything as we have more than what we might potentially need. But as we‘re all consumers, I would say it‘s more important to focus on a responsible approach to producing garments or products in general, that by nature includes thinking about ways of not burdening the earth.

“My overall approach will lead to smaller production numbers, but it might be a potential step towards being more responsible and producing on demand.” – Valentin Lessner

Is it doable to scale upcycling techniques for production? What kind of strategy are you following, or will you follow when it comes to producing larger numbers?

I can only speak from my own experience so far which has been including only one-of-a-kind pieces. When it comes to larger numbers, I still would like to continue using seasonal leftovers or deadstock. There is so much deadstock around and trying to create a well-made product that is meant to last for years. A bit like the German concept of Bauhaus that integrates the design with the technology of the production to lead to a perfect result in the end.

My overall approach will lead to smaller production numbers, but it might be a potential step towards being more responsible and producing on demand.

What are the harder and the most exciting elements of building a brand?

The most exciting is to design and develop meaningful products. The hard part is the financial side of it and getting visibility.

Is there anything in the fashion industry that you would like to change?

Set the focus back on the actual product and not on the marketing. I feel like fashion has become an entertainment business nowadays.

Are you experiencing any pressures when it comes to the year to come within the current socio-political climate (inflation, production limitations, financial cuts)? 

As I haven’t sold my work before, I could only focus on the personal, and mental experience of the last years and especially the last months which brought up many questions. I often ask myself if the things that I do are somehow relevant in comparison to everything that is happening in the world. But I’m trying to find my peace in what I do, moving people’s emotions in dark times, to give me and my work a certain responsible meaning.

Why did you want to apply for Hyères, and was the application process easy or difficult for you? 

I did not have any show or showcase for my graduation collection before due to COVID. I just wanted to show my work but never expected anything to happen. I just enrolled and was lucky enough to be chosen.

“I am glad that I had the opportunity to showcase my work to professionals and the industry.” – Valentin Lessner

Did you expect to win the Mercedes-Benz Sustainability Prize, as well as the 19m des Métiers d’Art Award? What does winning mean to you and your brand on a practical level? 

The prizes awarded to me are very overwhelming and unexpected. I just wanted to show my work and that has been the most important thing to me, along with paying tribute to everyone else involved in this project. Winning is the cherry on top, but for me, it‘s more the journey that counts.

Nevertheless, I am glad that the jury chose my work to be awarded in the end, as it gives me confidence in myself and my creations. I want to design and create meaningful garments in a responsible way.

Do you think winning prizes like these are essential for young designers? If yes, why?

I  don‘t think they are essential, as many participants have been continuing their journey successfully the last few years without winning. Personally, I am glad that I had the opportunity to showcase my work to professionals and the industry. The platform that Villa Noailles and Jean Pierre Blanc offer to young designers is very impressive and supportive, and I feel honoured to have been part of it this year.