“Our society is constantly controlling the female body,” says womenswear designer Madelen Hoffmann Jensen. Raised in Norway, she discovered fashion at the age of eight, when her grandma gave her a very meaningful present: her first sewing machine. A former intern of Norwegian designer Anne Karine Thorbjørnsen, Madelen has now graduated from the Oslo National Academy of the Arts (KHiO) with her collection ‘F50.0’, named after the medical code for anorexia – a thesis collection that fights against women’s oppression in society and asks for their liberation.
Madelen Hoffmann Jensen: against the oppression of women’s bodies
A poetically personal debut from the Norwegian designer
Unhappy with the science degree she started, Madelen knew she needed a change. And a visit to her dad, who lives in the US, was enough to make her realise fashion design was what she really wanted to do. “I never thought it could be a job I would have one day,” she says. But the course at Kendall College of Art and Design in Michigan was mostly technical and there wasn’t much room for experimentation, so she applied to Oslo National Academy of the Arts. The application process started when she was still living in a treatment facility to treat her anorexia, which motivated her to recover. “It felt natural, a full circle,” she says.
For her collection, Madelen transformed the eating disorder into a draping technique. By shrinking really big shirts to the point where they wouldn’t fit the body, she created garments that play with ruffles to give volume, while still keeping a tight silhouette in certain areas. Through this technique, the Norwegian designer wanted to represent the control exerted over women and the female body by today’s society. “It’s in a scary point nowadays because the control is not coming from the outside with garments like corsets. It is expected to come from inside women themselves,” she says.
The COVID-19 pandemic didn’t have a big impact on Madelen’s designs, as she had already determined the collection’s concepts, and fabric stores remained open in Oslo. She even feels that spending lockdown in her studio apartment was a positive experience despite the obvious downsides. “It made me free,” she says. “There was no one around who needed to see what I was doing, so I could play around without limits.”
Although studying fashion design implies a lot of stress, Madelen had an amazing experience at university. Her classmates partly contributed to it. “We had a great community in our class, and we were very supportive with each other,” she says. “Our teachers created a nice and safe environment for us to play around. After all, school is the place where you have the freedom to experiment.”
“Do you like money, sleep, and free time? Turn around.”
However, her story there didn’t have a happy ending. Madelen felt disappointed when the final graduate show was cancelled because of the pandemic. “You have been looking forward to that moment through your entire journey at school,” she says. The Oslo National Academy of the Arts decided to create an online exhibition for the whole design department where students could present their work through images. No matter how good the photoshoot looked, it wasn’t enough. “Seeing a collection in a fashion show is very different from seeing it in a photo. Over the summer, the school could’ve facilitated a presentation that could’ve done our work more justice,” she says. But, on a larger scale, she feels very lucky, “It could’ve been much worse.”
“It’s okay if you make something ugly.”
But that freedom can also make the life of a fashion designer even harder. “Do you like money, sleep, and free time? Turn around,” she jokes, although she thinks it is important to make the most of your time and enjoy the process anyway. “You can’t be afraid to make something bad. Some of the projects from which I have learnt the most are the ones that looked the worst. You have to take a risk,” she adds. “It’s okay if you make something ugly.”
Even if it seems superficial, fashion brings her the joy she needs.
With the uncertainty that surrounds everyone’s future at the moment, Madelen is overwhelmed by her life after graduation. “What makes me feel less ready is that everything is very digitalized,” she says. “I love working with my hands and I am nervous that it’s going to disappear.” And there is, even more, to worry about – there aren’t many options available in Norway for recent fashion graduates.
However, Madelen tries to stay positive. Her plan is to apply for an internship or a master’s abroad, probably in London or Copenhagen, but she hasn’t made up her mind yet. For now, she only wants to let her creativity flow. Even if it seems superficial, fashion brings her the joy she needs.
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