1 Granary Magazine - Issue 3

Dazzling in an Age of Austerity

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1 Granary 3 is out, economically priced at 0.07% of a 1—year BA course to match tripled tuition fees — get a copy today, receive it quicker than a degree

Caryn Franklin MBE, fashion activist, former i-D fashion editor and MSc in Psychology in Fashion student chronicles the evolution and her combat against the unachievable body standards and lack of age & race diversity in fashion and advertising.

Caryn Franklin is absolutely striking – but that’s beside the point. In 2013 she was appointed MBE for her services to diversity in the fashion industry in the Queen’s New Year honours list. Her journey towards diversity in terms of gender, age, size and ethnic background within fashion has been a long one, and is nowhere near its destination. Over a hot Bombay Omelette at Dishoom she details the start and evolution of this odyssey. She’s fierce but exudes warmth when she speaks, and while sipping her fresh mint tea she warns me: “I’m not everyone’s cup of tea – I’m a very transparent person, and some people might say I overshare…” In 1982, after finishing a BA in graphics at Kingston and a postgraduate in advanced typography and photography at CSM, Franklin went to i-D for a job interview. After a few quick questions founder Terry Jones asked her

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From snapping a picture of The Beatles to founding Rock Archive, photographer Jill Furmanovsky shares her thoughts on creating icons, why rock and roll is dead, and how art school has radically changed in the past few decades.

The rock and roll era has pretty much ended, according to Jill Furmanovsky, founder of the biggest online database of music photography: Rock Archive. “It’s the last dregs of it now because it’s going to die out with The Rolling Stones, with Pink Floyd and those last great dinosaur groups. We’re losing them all, we’ve lost James Brown, we’ve lost Michael Jackson… The replacements are not from the rock and roll era, they are from the digital era.”

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As the Russian designer duo celebrate their 15th anniversary, photographer Masha Mel and stylist Emelie Hultqvist travel to Moscow to capture their archive pieces exclusively for 1 Granary.

Russia is not particularly famous for its fashion industry. As designer duo Nina Neretina and Donis Pouppis from the label Nina Donis argue: that’s because it’s pretty non-existent. Yet, it’s exactly the place where they have produced collections for the past fifteen years, enjoying the freedom that the world’s largest country gives them. A couple in both life and work — they’ve known each other for 28 years — their collections reference many of their direct as well as distant influences: from their daughter’s Lego toys scattered throughout the house, to Grace Coddington, A Clockwork Orange, Russian folk costumes and the Blitz club. Each season, they share this wealth of research imagery online, coming forth from their reluctance of giving interviews and preferring to let the visuals speak for themselves. Here, they tell us about their synergy, politics and optimism, and the reality of working as a designer in Russia while showing

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In this series, 1 Granary invites specialist bookstore owners to showcase their favourite publications in their private and personal collections at home.

Instagram – it has singlehandedly revolutionised the way in which fashion is communicated (even more so than Facebook dare I say): documenting up-to-the-minute product arrivals on store shelves, the frenzy of fashion weeks, the envious shopping hauls of rich kids as well as countless other never-before-seen scenes of the fashion world. It’s no surprise that Anna Wintour recently hosted a dinner in Paris in honour of its mastermind Kevin Systrom. Now, thanks to prodigious app, second-hand book dealers such as November Books have been given a new lease of life. From working in antiquarian bookshops to accumulating enough material for a successful independent online bookstore of his own, Paul Lawrence of November Books is one of Instagram’s pioneering purveyors of rare art, fashion and photography publications. The Paula’s crew photo – Toni Riera from Pache – El balle 1966-1993 / Miguel Trillo – 1982 / Alchimia Milano – 1985 While some might

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Charlotte Hockin explains why the word minimalism might be too empty to describe her collections, and why you should build your own company very slowly, while gaining valuable experience from others along the way.

Hockin is a name you’ll soon be hearing a lot more often. It’s the surname of CSM alumni Charlotte, who has been quietly working away as a freelance designer since graduating in 2006. After years spent gaining experience with high street and high-end brands, building relationships with factories in Italy as a result, the time has finally come for this reserved talent to stand in the spotlight. Charlotte has the finesse to focus on every detail of her label, which consists of unlined separates in simple yet striking shapes, crafted from lightweight double-faced cashmere. She is aware of the competition, having worked on various brands for years, and is conscious of pricing and production – skills that come from a career spent focusing on the finer details. “I wouldn’t have been able to do it without that experience,” she admits, acknowledging that her time at CSM didn’t necessarily provide her

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Just started new term in CSM and want to break into the industry before graduating? Join our team!

 Writers, stylists, art critics, party organisers, photographers, and filmmakers: we are looking for you to join the 1 Granary family and work on a wide range of projects with us! Do you have the Midas touch? Here’s a quick self-test. If you think you’re a right fit, please don’t hesitate to write to us on info@1granary.com. 1) You are passionate about what you do We are looking for people with a real drive and a good pair of brains and balls to get from point A to Z, however inventive. 2) You are super sonic quick Not necessarily with typing, but ideally you’re a dynamic communicator who will be ready (and very excited) to run to interviews or guerrilla-style photoshoots if we call you the night before, and deliver work within deadlines. 3) You are Ambitious We look for people who genuinely believe in their capacities, are determined to build a career in fashion

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Fabio Piras, the successor of Louise Wilson and new course director of MA Fashion at Central Saint Martins, discusses fake portfolios, educating students for an out-of-control industry, and why commercial should not be considered a dirty word. This interview appears in 1 Granary third print issue, celebrating the MA Fashion graduates of 2015.

Standing tall and assertive in his uniform of head-to-toe black, the first impression of Fabio Piras is that he is calm, collected and cool-headed. Much like his predecessor, Louise Wilson, Piras pushes his students to achieve the best results and his long-time presence at the college – as well as his status as Professor Wilson’s right-hand man – means he indubitably has the respect of all those around him, students and staff members alike. “It’s never cool to say you’ve been with someone for 20 years,” chuckles Piras. “Sounds like an old couple.” It’s hard to imagine Fabio adopting Wilson’s famously razor-tongued leadership – a method that arguably worked given that the MA Fashion course has produced a consistent array of talent – despite it having become entwined with the perception of the course and its approach. “That’s one thing that I really want to talk about,” he says with

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Go through a seemingly nondescript doorway on Stoke Newington Road, down the stairs and into the cramped, dark basement, and you will discover Vogue Fabrics - the birthplace and home of Loverboy.

What started as a birthday party organised last summer by Charles Jeffrey, then about to go into his final year of MA Fashion, Loverboy has now branched out into a monthly club night on Sunday evenings at the George & Dragon as well as a Fashion East presentation at the ICA in June. The lovechild of Jeffrey and his many muses, friends and collaborators has grown up quite a bit since the original one-off night – praised by many as the new place to go out, dress up, dance and meet people you probably wouldn’t in a different state, it’s hard to ignore Loverboy and the repeatedly asked question “You goin’ Loverboy?” in the week leading up to the party. “I love to see that, says Jeffrey excitedly. “It isn’t all about me, it’s about everyone else. I want it to be a kind of spotlight on people. So it’s

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