28August2015
In this new series, 1 Granary invites specialist bookstore owners to showcase their favourite publications in their private and personal collections at home. The series debuts with Lucy Moore of Claire de Rouen Books.

The woody and musty scent, the grainy texture of almost weightless material between your fingers, the nostalgia of fading photographs – these are some of the pleasures of flipping through an out-of-print book like Raf Simons’ Isolated Heroes or the first ever issue of Arena Homme + magazine. In today’s transient digital age where Tumblr images and newsfeeds are consumed voraciously, the new (and young) has been fetishized, while old and rare publications provide a hidden library of reference that can’t be accessed through a simple Google search. Specialist bookstores like Claire de Rouen Books in London’s Soho are treasure chests of literary jewels, so cherished they are in fact that members of the creative circle, including fashion designers and photographers like Giles Deacon and Bruce Weber, are often in competition with each other for that “superbook” or in line for an appointment to peruse their extensive archive. Lucy Kumara

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27August2015
Interview with Robert Wallace, who graduated from Central Saint Martins BA Womenswear with a clear-cut collection celebrating the art of toiling.

Robert Wallace has a straight-to-the-point approach to his fashion design without too much focus on concept, concentrating instead on the precision and cleanliness of his toiling, which his graduate collection from Central Saint Martin’s BA Womenswear was a masterly exercise in. As he contemplates the next step in his practice — a spot on CSM’s prestigious MA Fashion course awaits — we speak to the designer about bondage references and what happens when you say “fuck it, I just need to make something.” To Robert, the Womenswear pathway of Central Saint Martin’s BA Fashion course was the only real option for him. He consciously focuses on the clothing itself, without much attention to embellishment or print. “The silhouette is what interests me  most,” he explains over e-mail. “I can appreciate all the other stuff, but personally, when I work it’s never something that has the strongest draw for me.” “I

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26August2015
Interview with Central Saint Martins graduate Rebecca Jeffs, on amalgamating Savile Row, French couture and pluralistic femininity.

The Mancunian Central Saint Martins graduate Rebecca Jeffs almost had a nervous breakdown when she enrolled at Central Saint Martins, but found the “blood, sweat and tears” of the Womenswear pathway all worth it, interning at Dior and Margiela before presenting a collection that explored how fashion distorts the human shape. Savile Row tailoring, velcro, wedding shoes and 5,000 hand stitches all meet in the universe of Rebecca Jeffs, whom we spoke to as she embarks on the new chapter of her career. Rebecca grew up in Manchester in the north of England, where she spent her childhood years designing, dreaming about costumes, and creating visual characters for her friends and pet dog. In 2008, she came to London in after finishing school to acquire a one-year diploma at London College of Fashion and continued immediately at Westminster for its fashion degree, but took the decision after one year to

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24August2015
Interview with Rozalina Burkova, who explored the artisan heritage of Bulgarian folklore fashion to produce a sustainable idiosyncratic graduate collection.

A political fashion practice is to Central Saint Martins fashion graduate Rozalina Burkova not just a matter of sustainable materials. It goes beyond immediate eco-awareness to include thinking about gender, political activism and cultural heritage. After quitting Political Science in her native Bulgaria, Rozalina Burkova hand-drew her way into Central Saint Martins, where she began a thorough research into Bulgarian artisan craftsmanship while dissing the elections in the sewing studios with her peers. We spoke to Rozalina Burkova about interning at Dior Couture, receiving the LVMH Grand Prix and exactly how long it takes to hand-draw a whole collection with magic markers. Before entering fashion education, Rozalina was in a very different field of knowledge, as she studied Political Science in her native Bulgaria. To her, fashion was a strong interest, but as she had never been drawing or sewing, it seemed to her unrealistic to pursue it further. “However,

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23August2015
Anders Sølvsten, former youth athlete, London party-goer, and Fashion Editor at LOVE, had no idea what a stylist was until the age of 22. We invited the renowned stylist for breakfast to discuss starting a Condé Nast publication as a part of Katie Grand’s team, freelance anxiety and the importance of assisting.

Anders Sølvsten Thomsen is an unusual stylist in several ways: he only began working in fashion at age 25 and he never finished his degree before being picked up by POP Magazine. A former assistant of Katie Grand, Anders functioned as Fashion Director of LOVE for three years before going freelance in 2014. Residing on the “cheap side of Victoria Park” with his dog and boyfriend, Anders has worked with the likes of Juergen Teller and Sølve Sundsbø, and for labels like Louis Vuitton, Loewe and Nina Ricci, but has miraculously managed to keep his feet on the ground — we invited Thomsen for breakfast at Dishoom to talk freelance anxiety and how to make it big in the industry.

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Interview with Claudia Girbau Pina, who graduated from Central Saint Martins performing a critique of modernist architecture.

Spanish-born CSM BA Fashion Design and Marketing graduate Claudia Girbau Pina approaches her designs as architectural experiments, describing her garments as “jackets, worn by a person, but buttoned to a wall.” While she initially found the autodidactic method of Central Saint Martins “disorientating,” her final collection is a refined exploration of the feminine subject in the masculine, modern city; fitting, as she packs her bags to explore another European fashion capital.

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20August2015
Interview with Central Saint Martins BA Fine Art graduate Amalia Ulman on her time as a struggling student and exploring notions of beauty and hyperconsumerist culture through her work.

In 2014, Argentinian-born Spanish artist and CSM graduate, Amalia Ulman, who is currently based in LA, gained recognition in the art world for her 4 month durational performance piece Excellences & Perfections, in which she performed the jetset rise and demise of a young LA woman via her personal Instagram account. Her piece intended to provoke its viewer’s behaviour towards what we see online, assessing the tension between fact and fabrication, in particular the way women are viewed online and the promulgation of one’s lifestyle via social media. Ulman continues to explore themes central to the notions of beauty and the obscenities of contemporary marketing in her latest work, International House of Cozy which premiered at MaMa Rotterdam. For Amalia Ulman, a young, provincial girl from Spain, attending art school in London served as a quench to her thirst for the big city and what she believed it had to

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19August2015
Interview with Tuğcan Dökmen, who transformed typically Turkish macho polo-shirts to breezy Sherbet nymphs in transparent tulle and dyed 3D prints.

Tuğcan Dökmen felt as if beads were exploding out of her as she began researching the traditional embroidery techniques of her native Turkey. Originally from Ankara, Turkey, she recently completed an MA in Womenswear at The Royal College of Art, presenting a series of nymph-like garments in tulle that referenced the gender-normative summer outfits of Turkish men. We spoke to the designer about cross-disciplinary experimentation and interning for Hussein Chalayan. “There are already too many clothes in the world.  You don’t need to add another garment into the pile. It’s about creating an honest, personal attitude.” – Zowie Broach London design education only came to the consciousness of Tuğcan Dökmen when, at 15 years-old, she started going on day-trips to an art studio in Istanbul to develop her fashion portfolio. It was here that she learned about Central Saint Martins, and she subsequently applied and was admitted to its foundation

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