1 Granary Magazine - Issue 3

Dazzling in an Age of Austerity

Shop Now

1 Granary 3 is out, economically priced at 0.07% of a 1—year BA course to match tripled tuition fees — get a copy today, receive it quicker than a degree

29June2016
Meet Colleen Leitch, the Royal College of Art MA Fashion Womenswear graduate who captures beauty and tristesse.

When I first met Colleen on one of my trips to the RCA studios back in December, I recall being most taken by a book of her photography. The pages smooth, my eyes poured over the profound imagery; a unique insight into Colleen’s practice, driven by her need to create as a form of catharsis. Now having access to an array of imagery, from her personal photography to her lookbook shots, I am caught between contact and context. The sensory appeal of her rich yet equally delicate textiles, collides with my mind full of references. When I see ‘Timothy #8’, the photograph which acted a starting point, I am reminded of Francis Bacon’s portraits. Equally redolent is the ethereal image of Bella, the collection’s muse, which makes me think of pre-Raphaelite paintings. The overall effect is that Colleen’s work is undoubtedly evocative of experience, emotion and mood: it conjures something

Read More
28June2016
Central Saint Martins MA Fashion textiles whiz kid Jack Pittard shares his meticulous fabric construction processes with us

Central Saint Martins MA Fashion graduate Jack Pittard begins our interview by telling us that he comes from a textile background, but he needn’t have, because faced with his collection, the textural surfaces of his garments are practically leaping off the rails. The garments feel very much ‘alive’, embodying a theatrical energy that is almost infectious. Traditionally a Menswear designer, Jack views his collection as being exclusively about the textile rather than having a specific male or female muse in mind. The collection incorporates tactile pieces with something very wearable, where his intention is to keep the looks clean and away from a gendered form. Having studied BA Textile Design at Chelsea College of Arts, he absorbed a more ‘artistic’ approach to design than some of his peers. Chelsea’s heavily art-directed environment fed him a variety of influences and mediums through which to realise his ideas, and this was where he

Read More
27June2016
Opening the Central Saint Martins BA Fashion Press show? No biggie. Sergey Grechka shares his grad collection journey with us.

Earlier this month, Ukrainian designer Sergey Grechka opened the Central Saint Martins BA Fashion Press Show. He presented a heavily introspective graduate collection, the story of which travels back to the designs he created in his second year. “I had a few dark moments,” he reflects on his former melancholic state of mind, coming forth partially from a disconnect with his family, due to war actions that took place in his home country. The accumulation of thoughts and feelings influenced the work he would go on to make during his last year at CSM: the colour choices, the shapes and development methods. “I didn’t struggle finding inspiration for my final project,” Sergey shares, “It is a reflection of my thoughts on sexuality, gender roles, violence, attitude and behavior. These are present in everyday life and drive my curiosity.” When working with abstract concepts, where do you start your research and gather imagery? How do

Read More
24June2016
One of our generation’s most political designers, Tigran Avetisyan speaks up about change and revisiting old relevant ideas

Tigran Avetisyan isn’t your run-of-the-mill designer. The Moscow-based, Central Saint Martins graduate has established himself as a unique visionary voice within menswear — while adamantly remaining on the outskirts of the fashion system — by consistently challenging the very existence of an arguably flawed modus operandi. By continuously producing collections that aim to define and redefine the notion of dressing, in and of itself, Tigran Avetisyan wants you to question everything. We had the pleasure of chatting with Tigran over the phone from his studio in Moscow, and discussed the challenges of London life, his drink of choice, and why he isn’t necessarily pining for a fashion revolution. Tigran, you previously lived in London for 5 years, and studied at Central Saint Martins. What made you decide to move back to Moscow in the end? I graduated from CSM in 2012. At that time I just got a bit tired

Read More
23June2016
Antwerp Fashion Department graduate Sanan Gasanov created an elaborate triple-award winning couture collection, which incorporated 15 fabrics in each piece, yet is deceptively light.

Think Antwerp, and the avant-garde workings of the Antwerp Six come to mind, but the city continues to produce outstanding up-and-coming talents today that shouldn’t be overlooked. Born in Azerbaijan and raised in St. Petersburg, Sanan Gasanov is part of this year’s promising BA graduating class at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts’ Fashion Department. The 23-year-old recently showed his undergraduate collection, an emotional full-circle culmination of personal stories and accumulative research from the past six years. Echoing German artist Katharina Grosse’s spectacular rainbow-hued gestural environments as well as Michael Beutler’s sizeable bricolage work, Gasanov’s collection is a chaotic cacophony of sumptuous jacquards, touchy-feely interior materials and adhoc vintage garments. On the runway, the looks pack a real visual punch; (example) a deconstructed babydoll dress is attached to the sleeve of a menswear coat, almost like an appendage. When taken apart, the 60-piece collection was made to be surprisingly wearable

Read More
22June2016
“Achievements over the years have given us something we can build on. It would be stupid for us to have done all of it and give up,” concluded Benjamin Kirchhoff in our interview with design duo Meadham Kirchhoff -- the cover story of our third issue, that focused on their lasting legacy.

Since the closure of their brand last year, a variety of developments surrounding MK have made fashion headlines — most of them centered around their lost archive, much of which has been sold at sample sales without their involvement. To keep the history of one of our generation’s most creative brands alive, Ben is looking for help to save around 50 pieces from their 12-year long history, which will be gifted to museums. “The aim is also to make these clothes live — that they can be borrowed for shoots, that they can be exhibited and not live in the past and be forgotten,” Ben explained. With a warm heart for these CSM legends, we hope that you, our friends, will be eager to help with restoring their life’s work, even in the smallest way. They are looking to raise £15k for the oeuvre, and you can support them at

Read More
22June2016
5 things you need to know about Antwerp Fashion Department graduate Rushemy Botter

1. His collection was sparked by a chance encounter with a little boy during a holiday in the Dominican Republic. “I went to the Dominican Republic, and I travelled a lot to find some inspiration. My collection was based on some children who were on the streets, and one boy in particular stood out. I saw him on the street, and what he was wearing caught my eye, so I took a picture. I think he didn’t have enough clothes, so he wore two sweaters. One to cover up his upper body and the other he used as his pants; this was a key thing that I translated into my collection. He was really interesting, so I went up to him and spoke to him. I told him about my project and he was very enthusiastic. He’s really poor, and living in a favela. He is one of seven children

Read More
21June2016
Having worked in the industry for several years, Central Saint Martins MA Fashion graduate Rok Hwang explains why it might be better to start your brand straight out of college

Before we’ve ever met, Rok Hwang manages to come across as accommodating and kind. He is extremely cooperative as outside forces cause numerous changes to our schedules and meetings, just telling me not to worry and wishing me a lovely weekend. When we finally meet at his studio, he is just as calm and considerate in the flesh. He and his wife Stella, the joint creative powerhouse behind the brand, offer cups of tea and apologise for their barking Japanese Spitz puppy before we’ve even sat down.  The desire to make others comfortable spills happily over into Rok’s everyday working life; he explains that one of his main priorities is to make the working atmosphere a positive one. “We try to make it a fun experience, and enjoyable, we just laugh a lot… I wanted to make the team really happy.” This goal has come from Rok’s own journey in

Read More