19April2015
WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK ON KANYE WEST, THE CURRENT STATE OF FASHION AND TEACHING SUCCESS

Einstein once remarked that there’s no inspiration in an empty room, which is probably why the fifth floor of the iconic Modenatie building smells of burnt leather. A student is adding loafer details to his Adidas Superstar sneakers. In the back of the museum-like white cube chamber students are gazing at a Stockman tailor dummy. You could say that there’s a certain creative flow going on here, but to really understand the underlying structure of this elite heaven for aspiring fashion designers there’s one man you need to speak to: fashion’s own antithesis Walter van Beirendonck. In the heart of the Belgian fashion capital we spoke about Kanye West, the current state of fashion and teaching success – “If I see a student’s work is not there yet I demand more effort, research and work. They might cry in the process, but that’s nothing horrible.”

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CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS MA FASHION GRADUATE SAMUEL YANG IS TRANSFORMING HIS FASHION INTO PROPER ART

The idea that fashion is an art form is nothing new, since art is anything that can be considered a self-expression; Samuel Yang takes it a step further with his plan to collaborate with local creatives in different parts of the world, after graduating from the MA Fashion in Womenswear. Dream big they say, and Yang definitely does. “On the MA, they want you to keep questioning yourself and it’s more about how to be honest with yourself and transfer your ideas and develop the whole collection in a way that’s ‘you’.” What are your plans for the future? I’m looking for a studio space in London at the moment. I want to take a different path of approaching fashion; it’s still going to be fashion-related though. I want to move away from London and create projects in different cities and to do presentations. The main product would still be a

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17April2015
AS THE CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS MA FASHION GRADUATE EXHIBITION IS SHOWCASED AT THE LETHABY GALLERY FROM 15-25 APRIL, WE LOOK BACK AT AN INTERVIEW WITH ITS CURATOR, PUBLISHED IN OUR SECOND ISSUE: ALISTAIR O NEILL, FASHION HISTORY AND THEORY COURSE LEADER.

Whether in reference to the students or the tutors, Central Saint Martins is “about the people that are there”. That’s the view of Alistair O’Neill, tutor of Fashion History and Theory, among myriad other roles, but ask anyone at 1 Granary, the magazine and the building, and it’s a sentiment that holds. You may not be familiar with the Fashion History and Theory pathway, with its academic leaning in a college celebrated for its applied arts, but you’ll have no doubt seen Alistair’s recent projects proliferate your Twitter feeds, followed by #BlowExhibition or #Valentino hash tags. Perhaps you’ve experienced them in person at London’s Somerset House. Valentino: Master of Couture and Fashion Galore, a celebration of the life and legacy of Isabella Blow, were exhibitions with Alistair at the helm and, uniquely, a Saint Martins presence in the opportunities he provided for his students, who contributed to each show. “I’m both a

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ON 15 APRIL, THE EXHIBITION *NUDE* OPENED AT THE LETHABY GALLERY: A SYNTHESISED BODY OF WORK FROM THE 2015 MA FASHION GRADUATES OF CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS AND A REVEALING CONTINUATION OF THE GRADUATE SHOW AS STAGED DURING LONDON FASHION WEEK.

The exhibition was decidedly curated in collaboration with Alistair O’Neill, a name you may recognise for recently bringing Guy Bourdin’s oeuvre to the heart of Somerset House this winter. Being the first exhibition of its kind to showcase recent Central Saint Martins MA Fashion graduate work, for free and to the public, it’s a new era of direction for the course, which since last year has been lead by Fabio Piras; who also oversaw the ‘Nude’ exhibit through from its early beginnings. “It’s an opportunity to look at the garments closely and understand the process which you don’t get from the catwalk show nor from a flattened image” emphasises Piras.  O’Neill, the Fashion History and Theory course leader at Central Saint martins, muses “The title and the concept came out of a particular colour that Fabio and I had been drawn to throughout the collections… The term “Nude” has a much

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15April2015
IN CONVERSATION WITH KATE PHELAN: AN EDITED EXCERPT FROM THE INTERVIEW WITH THE GLOBAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF TOPSHOP, ORIGINALLY PUBLISHED IN 1 GRANARY ISSUE 1

Kate Phelan’s rise to the top ranks of British fashion has been the stuff of fashion fairytale. From growing up in the university town of Exeter, she first studied fashion at the nearby Somerset College of Arts and Technology, before surprising even herself by getting accepted to Saint Martins. On her placement year during her degree in Fashion Communication and Promotion in the late 1980s, a three-month internship at Vogue made her reconsider university. She dropped out before graduating and took the role of Fashion Assistant at the magazine. After a stint as Junior Fashion Editor at Marie Claire, she was back at Vogue House in 1992 and was soon responsible for Vogue’s fashion direction. Working with groundbreaking photographers like Nick Knight, Corinne Day and Paolo Roversi, Kate’s name became a by-word for the unique and creative British aesthetic espoused by British Vogue throughout the 1990s and 2000s. Her vision

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13April2015
SIX MONTHS AFTER THE SUCCESSFUL RELEASE OF HIS FIRST FULL GRAPHIC NOVEL, WE ASK JAMIE COE TO REFLECT ON HIS EXPERIENCE AT ART SCHOOL; HIS LAUNCH INTO PROFESSIONAL PUBLISHING WITH NOWBROW PRESS, AND HIS FUTURE PROJECTS

The graphic novel of Central Saint Martins graduate Jamie Coe, ‘Art Schooled’, is a challenging and humorous portrayal of ‘first impressions’, anxieties, making friends, and the awkward stage of coming of age. Following the protagonist Daniel Stope through his ‘enrolment at art school and consequent move to the city’, the reader experiences a vibrant and high pressure environment through his sometimes naive and critical eyes. We are reminded of the difficult truth that we are all too quick to judge at times. We ask Coe about the origins of ‘Art Schooled’, why he feels graphic novels are a powerful medium to discuss social and political issues, and how comics interact with their audience unlike other art forms.

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10April2015
ERAN SHANNY TALKS ABOUT WILD HEARTS, HIS ROYAL ACADEMY OF ART ANTWERP MA FASHION GRADUATE COLLECTION, THE ADVICE THAT DRIES VAN NOTEN GAVE HIM, AND THE LACK OF SUPPORT FOR YOUNG DESIGNERS IN ANTWERP

Royal Academy of Art Antwerp MA Fashion graduate Eran Shanny wasn’t exactly planning to study design. It just sort of happened on a whim. Having had a previous career as a performer all over the world, but simultaneously following the work of Walter van Beirendonck, he developed a keen interest in fashion, which led him to where he is now. He spoke with us about fashion in Tel Aviv, support for young designers in Antwerp, and the advice that Dries van Noten gave him. Did you always intend to study menswear, when you went to study at the Royal Academy’s fashion department? The whole idea of doing fashion was actually new to me. My previous career was as a performer, and this is why I felt attracted to the Academy. I was interested in fashion, but not in the sense of ‘I’m going to be a designer’ — I was

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09April2015
ANNA SUI RECENTLY GAVE A TALK AT CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS; WE CAUGHT HER AFTERWARDS AND FOUND OUT ABOUT HER TIME AT FASHION SCHOOL, HER DEFIANCE TO ANNA WINTOUR AND HER LONGSTANDING FRIENDSHIP WITH STEVEN MEISEL

Growing up in the suburbs of impoverished Detroit, Sui moved to New York at an early age to pursue fashion at Parsons. With her BFF and partner in crime, photographer Steven Meisel, she conquered New York in its golden age, chasing her heroes like Andy Warhol at iconic NYC night life venues like the Mudd Club; eventually setting up business and gaining immense success with her playful celebration of the feminine through all historical eras. Today, the charismatic designer oversees an empire of fashion, fragrances and cosmetics, selling in over 50 countries with no signs of slowing – but exactly how does one get there, and what does business mean in fashion design? We caught Anna while in London to give a talk at CSM.  “I spent 10 years building my business without doing a fashion show.” How was your time at fashion school? I wasn’t a great student. It

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