1 Granary Magazine - Issue 3

Dazzling in an Age of Austerity

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1 Granary 3 is out, economically priced at 0.07% of a 1—year BA course to match tripled tuition fees — get a copy today, receive it quicker than a degree

26August2016
Central Saint Martins BA Graphic Design graduate Alice Caiado aptly illustrates the worries she and others have encountered at art school.

Sweetness, intensity, curiosity. BA Graphic Design graduate Alice Caiado seems to have made of these innate features of hers the very principles to which she sticks while designing, illustrating and filming. Her final project ‘The Book of Worries’ with which she left Central Saint Martins in 2016 surely encapsulates at best this powerful mixture of qualities, harmonized through creativity. Everything started with the question: “I wonder what people worry about all the time?” and ended up as a succession of bittersweet black truths on light pink pages. ‘The Book of Worries’ is an ode to genuineness; is it the place where people could anonymously and finally be spontaneous and honest. And we should thank Alice for this. Also inspired by animation movies, Kubrickian landscapes and poetry, Alice’s world gets under your skin through an accurate use of both abstraction and reflection. “It seems to me that no matter how convenient

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24August2016
The CSM BA Print graduate on learning vital dyeing skills in India, the Wabi Sabi philosophy that feeds into her work, and why her collection was born out of unexpected errors.

Applying a philosophy of embracing hazards and unexpected errors, Paula Canovas del Vas has come to master the technique of incorporating accidents and unforeseen blunders into her work. Rather than aiming for a specific outcome, she lets the result of her process shape the offspring of her ideas. After gaining learning experiences during her placement year at Ashish, Gucci and Margiela, she realised the true potential of good teamwork and the value of venturing your comfort zone. Developing a unique printing technique together with a construction worker at a Spanish factory she stumbled across in her hometown, and participating in printing courses whilst travelling in the north-west regions of India, these coincidental events literally transformed into practical elements that shaped the final outcome of her graduate collection. “Since I wanted to incorporate the concept of mistakes within the collection, there weren’t really that many things that could go wrong.” What

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23August2016
Hugh Devlin explains the importance of trademarks and patents and how he has helped designers get the infrastructure of their business in place, from money to manufacturing.

*This interview first appeared in the third issue of 1 Granary. Think of a fashion news story. Whether it’s conglomerates like LVMH or Kering investing in a young company, maybe it’s the hiring of new creative directors at brands like Calvin Klein and Dior, or the announcement of a collaboration between a luxury brand and a global fast fashion chain. Whatever the story, it’s likely there’s one man who’s brokering the deal: London-based Hugh Devlin has seen it all and combed through the paperwork to prove it. As the principal advisor for the luxury brands sector of Withersworldwide, a legal firm with a lineage spanning over a century, he’s the legal specialist that nurtures and protects a designer’s creation from conception to consumer. Having worked with the biggest fashion brands since 1995, Devlin has guided a multitude of brands including Peter Pilotto, Mary Katrantzou, Mulberry, Givenchy, Valentino, Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano, Hussein

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22August2016
If bags are a booming business, then obtaining an MA in making them seems a sensible decision. RCA graduate Taja Bobek opens up about designing the accessories that are always in conversation with garments.

Once upon a time, bags were not a prominent addition to looks presented on the runway. Fairly speaking, it looked a bit awkward — an accessory, slightly distracting from the clothes, perhaps. But imagine a show without it in 2016, and it may feel as though a vital item is missing. RCA’s Head of Fashion Zowie Broach once joked about the illogic of so many students wanting to become fashion designers, when clearly it’s the shoes and accessories designers who are the ones cashing in. As the global leather goods industry is set to generate approximately $91.2 billion revenue by 2018, it certainly seems a viable area to obtain an MA in. That’s, of course, beyond the love of craftsmanship and dedication to creating beautiful products. We spoke with one of the RCA’s recent Fashion Footwear, Accessories and Millinery (FAM) course graduates, Taja Bobek, to find out how her Brutalist inspirations translate into

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19August2016
Patrick Aramburu from Paris-based boutique L’Eclaireur shares tricks of the trade for young designers.

L’Eclaireur sure is a shop with a history and longevity in the Paris retail scene. Started by Armand Hadida 36 years ago, the boutique quickly became a destination for those seeking out emerging designers — something which the (now five!) shops still maintain as part of their core buying fundamentals. The stores are distinctly different from one another — you may not even find all of them; shrouded in a slight mystery with secret door openings, the whole lot — and are about more than ‘just fashion’ for garments’ sake. As Hadida once said in an interview with NOWFASHION: “Fashion is far from looking like a single note. What I mean is that it is only the basis of ‘sol-fa’, then you have to write the score, you have to compose this music. That’s what fashion is — it’s a set of personal expressions.” We sat down with chief buyer

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How does the domestic and working environment affect our clothes? This CSM grad enquires through womenswear tailoring.

Aiming to create long lasting, wearable and classical pieces, Imogen Wright’s graduate collection takes off in a personal exploration of women’s wardrobes. Feeling disillusioned about the relevance of fashion, she began to search for repetitive patterns in the every-day wear of women, and looked at how our different environments are affecting the clothes that we wear. Ranked by Business of Fashion as one of the top 6 Central Saint Martins BA Graduates of 2016, she expresses a wish of moving towards a more sustainable fashion production. “I think as a student it’s important to be aware of the issues facing the planet and how the fashion industry contributes to them. To make a conscious decision about whether your work should respond to this or not, is very important.” “The concept and visual narrative come hand in hand. They develop and change simultaneously.” What was the conceptual starting point of your

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17August2016
Because in the end, all fashion design roads lead back to the fabric.

Want to know what the next Céline collection might look like? Stalk Phoebe Philo at Première Vision — the most renowned textiles and fabric trade fair, which was born when 15 weavers from Lyon got together and presented their work at the International Textile Centre in Paris in 1973. We spoke with Pascaline Wilhelm recently, who has been the fair’s fashion director since 1998, to hear her thoughts on new technologies, the difficulty of balancing silhouette and the appropriate fabric, and why it’s so important to work with the body as opposed to merely using the eye. They say that once you master how to create your own fabric and use it in your fashion designs, the world is your oyster… So what’s vital to learn? “It is very complex to be a fashion designer, it requires a lot of work.” How do you feel technology has changed the textiles industry? Do you

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16August2016
The CSM grad on pursuing artistic and sustainable design, launching his own brand, and why social media is a blessing for emerging designers like himself.

Olubiyi Thomas is saving organic clothing from getting too much of a bad rep. The designer, who graduated from CSM in 2013, has recently carved out a niche business, after working for De Rien for two years. With an artist-like approach to design — “Looking inwards in order to give back out to the world” — Olubiyi is set on creating a world around his clothing that communicates the meticulous craft and ideas encapsulated inside them. We swung by his studio in Hackney Wick right before he headed off to Copenhagen’s International Fashion Fair last week — sitting down in a room with fabrics piled high in every corner and the recognisable image of the head of ONI displayed on his desktop; soaking up the story of the brand he launched during Paris Fashion Week. “You see people post “Yeah I’ve made it!” on Facebook, but I was thinking: does ‘making it’ even exist? I feel like

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