All posts tagged art

MA fashion graduate Toma Stenko recalls how her “fashion adventure” began at the tender age of seven, working alongside her aunt in a tailoring shop in her native Russia. Her graduate collection, shown on the runway as part of the Central Saint Martins MA Fashion showcase during London Fashion Week, comprised of highly complex and layered shape, contorted around the models’ bodies. In subdued mustard, navy, and earthy teal, Stenko’s puzzle-inspired collection seemed to the audience an exercise in contour. Jigsaw shapes jutted out sharply then melded back into the natural lines on the models’ bodies, to stunning effect.

She is now working on a project for the English National Ballet and talked to 1 Granary about what it was like working for Louise Wilson, whom she calls “a magical character”.

What does fashion personally mean to you?

I believe fashion is a vision [that] evokes the art form of seeing the invisible. A unique ability [that] brings to life an exceptional showcase of freedom and individuality of style. Fashion makes my heart beat faster.

What inspires you?

It can be absolutely anything: a random sight, a smell, but most importantly you must be constantly alert to be prepared to see it, hear it, feel it. Inspiration is only an instant flash in our conscience followed by endless work.

Please tell us about your collection.

Puzzle as the main element of my concept. The puzzle represents the quintessence of the simplest and the most complex forms and incarnations such as game, mosaic, childhood, but at the same time it is a grain of sand in the desert, a human genome, an atom in the Earth’s biosphere and complex structure of human confluence. Puzzle is universal, it represents a single structure and at the same time it is united with other elements. We can consider any item separately or in a combination with other elements, and this is a key silhouette of my collection.In my research I deeply explored complex edges and deformations as a main graphic element of clothing. I studied human anomalies, where the phenomenon of Siamese twins became a biological representation of my idea of puzzled structure. It is amazing how nature combines human cells to build new forms and lines. I was inspired by the idea of representing such controversial silhouettes in clothes. I was fascinated not only by the outer side of these deformations, but personal and psychological reality of human beings, where two souls live in one body.  There is a certain symbolism and surrealism in the forms of organisms that follow into another.

In the development of silhouettes, I tried to use rough graphic lines to represent the strength and personality of those amazing people, and at the same time I combined it with soft flowing elements, showing the fragility and delicacy of their confluence. In my research I looked at the anatomy of Siamese twins, which led me to a better understanding of positioning garments and how they interact with the body. I used asymmetric shapes with an accent on the edges and borders of the silhouettes. In my research I paid a lot of attention to Henry Moore sculptures with his idea of penetration of the forms.

Color is another important element of my collection. I mostly used clean natural shades that were inspired by the work of Picasso and Miro, where the first artist represented color blocking shapes contrasting with rough graphic lines, while the other used abstraction and color palettes.

At this stage I considered using prints that would bring focus to the overall architecture of the shapes, possibly enhancing or creating visual distortion of the silhouettes. In my selection of fabrics I use a combination of silk jersey in order to fully gain the effect of “breathing fabric”. Its flexibility allows me to play with silhouette regardless of the static forms. Static and dynamic are the two main streams in my collection. Space and time are the main motives for this project; they have determined colors and silhouettes, so that abstract forms intertwine with clear graphics.

My main concept was to create three-dimensional effect in clothes, working with planes as an identification of organic forms. I have used different techniques of complicated folding and unfinished seams, together with the development of patterns that will keep shape for itself.

How did you end up at CSM’s MA course?

Once I completed BA at CSM, I couldn’t even dream of getting to Louise. I think I was one of the last students to complete the application. I remember that morning so well. It was at the old Charing Cross campus. Uncountable number of people from all over the world awaited patiently by the front doors, all with huge folders and suitcases (literally) of their work. And there I was with my work. Once I saw the chaos I completely lost any hope in myself but decided to stay anyway. We were asked to spread out our works, leave and return in 3 hours. We were also told that only those “lucky ones” who would appear on the list would receive an interview with Louise.

I remember how awfully tired I was as I only managed to complete my portfolio the night before the interview. All I could think about was sleep. Another couple of hours and all the atrocity will be over. Upon return at a specified time I saw my name on the list made out of seven people. “No!” I thought to myself, today I will not get a chance to sleep!”  That is how my journey in the MA started.

 Did you always wanted to do fashion design?

I started my fashion adventure at the age of seven, when I was “kidnapped” by my aunt (with my parents’ permission of course) who was then a designer in a small tailor shop in Russia. Since then, I spent my days surrounded by multi-colored fabrics, patterns, threads and scissors. I fell in love immediately with it and was inspired to create my own.

Tell us about your time on MA. What was the most fun and what was the most difficult?

MA course gave me the opportunity to develop my taste on a par with creative vision and dramatically improved my time management and decision making skills. In the process of working on my final collection I learned how to balance the contemporary clothing, design and art.

MA is Louise! Magical character! So many great things have already been said about this woman that its practically impossible to add anything new without sounding trivial, however she is someone who breaks down all conventions. I am so grateful that I had the opportunity to be her student. She has drastically changed my life and my perception of fashion. She is someone who discovers unbeknownst layers in you, in your mind, demands answers to questions that puzzle your brain for weeks.

What does a typical day on MA consist of?

It’s hard to describe the day at MA. One must live through it. You never know what to expect in an instant. All that happens behind the walls of MA’s studio is an endless race, a battle for survival and 24-hour work, work and once again work.

In your opinion, what skills do you need to be fit for MA: technical, pattern cutting, organizational, thick skin or easy attitude? 

You need to be inspired to achieve what you want to be doing.

What is the most valuable lesson you learnt from Louise Wilson? What advice would you give to BA students who want to apply for the MA course?

The most valuable and challenging lesson I learnt is Louise’s individuality and personality. Her unrestrained energy, power, mastery and authority she has over everything she comes across. Louise is a great woman, a woman who creates history. And I am extremely happy to have experienced that. The advice is simple. If you are ready to meet Louise and learn from her, truly ready, then go for it! 

What might you have done differently while you were on the course?

I wish I could have improved my English so I could understand Louise’s jokes better.

Anything you regret not doing while you were studying?

I didn’t always recognise how profound was the presence of that great woman.

What are the three most important things you learnt in college that were most important in shaping you as a designer?

It’s all about creation.

Would you like to start up your own label or would you prefer to work for another company? Why?

Yes, of course I would like to start my own label, develop the international brand and become a highly professional contemporary fashion designer. Most importantly, I would love to embroider my own pattern on a massive canvas called “Fashion”.

What’s in the future? 

The future looks like the abstract sculptures of Henry Moore.

Runaway images curtesy of catwalking.com