The designer describes her collection as unisex. “Tailored suits are very important to me but I wanted to soften them and take the squareness away.” To achieve that she focused on pleats, a technique that is often considered an element of womenswear. “I wanted to see what happened if I made a suit that is completely pleated. What would happen if I used that technique to fix pleats on parts close to the body and let them hang free on other parts? This came back to an idea of having controlled and uncontrolled areas.” That concept was further explored through quilted and flowing fabrics.$
“IT SCARES ME THAT THERE IS NO MORE SPACE FOR CREATIVITY.”
If you get a chance to look in Joanna’s design portfolio, you will find, among scraps of fabric and knitting, illustrations she made before physically putting the garments together. “That was a search for the colours,” she confesses. “I started painting on paper and from these came the idea to work with pleats, which went back to stripes. I start my collection without really knowing which direction it will go.” It is clear from the drawings that the collection was already formed unconsciously in her mind. Joanna even dyed the fabrics herself so that she could get the patterns and colours exactly as she envisioned them. She also collaborated with EE Exclusives to develop her own jacquard fabric, which resulted in a blend of striped and floral patterns.