Cono Corney: Re-fashioning the past for the present

Tradition is heavily central to Cono’s designs, yet simultaneously, his outlook on the industry is modern and discerning. “I’m bored of how fashion operates,” he divulges. Current trends are not paid any attention, nor are they considered in the slightest: “I’d rather my work be appreciated by a small few, than conform with what the majority of people like.” With intense and obsessive research characterising his process, vintage garments are re-envisioned for the contemporary. Influenced by British tailoring, civilian clothing dating from the 1890s-1950s, and British military uniform from the ‘30s and ‘40s, Corney’s interest in history sets the foundations for his identity as a designer.

Born in a small village in England, Norton St Philip, Cono always planned to move to London, where his parents are originally from. Cono’s maternal grandmother worked as a freelance textile designer, and growing up living with his mum – who was always altering, mending and making her own clothes – he was engaged with fashion from a young age. It wasn’t until Corney finished sixth form and began a foundation course, that he decided fashion was the creative path he wanted to pursue.

Initially enrolled at LCF, Corney dropped out after one term. Finding the experience isolating and noting a serious absence of support for students, Corney also found the curriculum lacked focus on fashion history, sewing skills, pattern cutting and garment construction. “I just found it boring,” he says. Wanting to give fashion another go, Cono reapplied for BA Menswear Design at Westminster two years later. “Westminster ticked all the boxes I was looking for, and I never looked back!” Despite concerns about starting a four-year degree at an older age compared to his peers, Cono encourages others to remember you have time, whether you’re thinking of changing universities or career paths: “You’re still young, life is long!”

Cono’s interest in historical dress isn’t simply an appreciation of the surface appearance of a garment, but rather a commitment to understanding craftsmanship of garments through time. It comes as no surprise to discover that Cono is the owner of a folder jam-packed with reference images, collected and continuously added to, throughout the last few years. Old and vintage garments, mainly military and civilian clothing dating from the 1890s to the 1950s, complete Cono’s archive: “I am fascinated by how clothing had such a different role during these decades, as well as how much consideration and care was put in.”

Spending hours sourcing the perfect button for a shirt, or the correct cloth for an overcoat, each detail is deliberate and thoughtfully considered. This commitment to precision and refinement goes hand in hand with Cono’s obsession with the past: “I love research, getting obsessed with a tiny detail a tailor from Norwich decided to use 100 years ago.” Using only natural fabrics, vintage hardware is sourced from Portobello Market, “or stolen from old clothes in my wardrobe.” This meticulous approach to design sets Cono apart from his contemporaries; historical referencing is imbued throughout the research process, concepting and making. In Corney’s designs, the past is seamlessly blended with the present.

“Like a hoarder’s home, not everything is visible at first glance.” – Cono Corney

Entitled Hoarder, Cono’s graduate collection was a reflection of his grandfather’s life. Corney encourages the viewer to take time to observe his designs. “Like a hoarder’s home, not everything is visible at first glance.” Cono was gripped by the obsessive collecting that overtook his grandfather’s later life – from the ordinary to the obscure. Many items discovered while clearing out his grandfather’s house were reused and repurposed for his graduate collection. Whilst research and input from period photographs and vintage garments were crucial to Corney’s process, it was important that these references acted only as inspiration. “I didn’t want to create a collection of copies,” he says.

Extending beyond clothing, Cono collaborated with his friend, Solomon Upton-Jubber, to create a fragrance to complement his graduate collection. Inspired by the smells of his grandpa’s house, as well as scents that evoked his life experiences during the second World War, fresh sea scents juxtaposed more pungent, murky undertones. This incorporation of scent gave Cono’s collection a distinctive edge, serving as a means to further evoke the storytelling within his designs.

“I’ve always just designed clothes that I’d want to wear!” – Cono Corney

In an industry that continues to move at an overwhelming and unsustainable pace, the slower and more scrupulous aspects of fashion design are embraced by Cono: “So much is being pumped out and everyone seems to be doing the same thing.” Every detail contributes to the overall narrative, from the fabric choice down to each stitch, his embracement of traditional techniques makes for garments that are unique in their longevity and quality. This traditional approach aligns with slower, sustainable practices that are necessary for the future of fashion. Carefully considering the role of clothing throughout history and now in the present, Cono asserts, “I’m of the mind: make and wear whatever you like and feel good in.” A self-confessed ‘selfish’ designer, Cono admits: “I’ve always just designed clothes that I’d want to wear. My work is just a reflection of me and my interests, it’s for me. If other people like it, that’s a bonus!”

Cono would like to dedicate his final collection to his dad, who passed away last year, for his consistent support and profound interest in Cono’s work.