Ivan Delogu’s modern take on Sardinian traditions

As part of his mission to represent the Italian island, Delogu has created a whole universe that serves as a base for his graduate collection. An array of innovative-yet-folkloric garments destined to dress different characters that represent all women in society – the maid, the mother, the lady, the nonna, the widow, the bride, and the Goddess.

For the construction of the garments, the designer drew inspiration from local artisans. As part of the process, he disassembled unused plastic curtains from the 70s and wove them back together to create a pattern that mimics traditional Sardinian rugs.

Growing up in Sardinia, however, was not as pleasant for Delogu as one may think. Truth is small villages tend to be quite hostile towards LGTBQ people, which resulted in uncomfortable situations for the designer. “Being gay in my region, one of the least populated areas in Europe, was challenging,” he says. “I realized that when I moved to Milan to study fashion. My childhood felt like like being almost 20 years behind, in a way.”

His adventure in Milan didn’t last long, since the school’s fashion approach did not align with Ivan’s needs. He then finally took the plunge and moved to London despite his initial fears. “I always dreamt of coming to Central Saint Martins but I was afraid of the language barrier. I didn’t speak a word of English back in the day. But I had the guts to come here anyway, to follow my dream.”

“I always dreamt of coming to Central Saint Martins but I was afraid of the language barrier. I didn’t speak a word of English back in the day. But I had the guts to come here anyway, to follow my dream.” – Ivan Delogu

“I was meant to graduate in 2021, but I couldn’t. All because I didn’t have Settlement Status or Pre-settlement Status at the time.” – Ivan Delogu

What he couldn’t anticipate were the bumps on the road he would find while chasing those dreams. “CSM was amazing, even though it was challenging,” he explains. “When I look back at what I did, I can say it was one of the most rewarding experiences that I’ve ever had, but it was also full of ups and downs.” Unfortunately, Covid and Brexit got in the way. “I was doing an internship in Paris, but I was forced to leave my placement and go back to Italy because of my country’s strict Covid restrictions,” says Delogu. This left him in an tricky position for Brexit, preventing him from returning to the UK after lockdown in order to finish his studies. “I was meant to graduate in 2021, but I couldn’t. All because I didn’t have Settlement Status or Pre-settlement Status at the time.”

“CSM’s big secret is taking a bunch of weirdos, putting them all together, shaking them up a bit and waiting for what comes out from that shaker. They basically elevate your own potential and guide you throughout your journey.” – Ivan Delogu

His time at CSM and everything he has learnt there is still present now, after graduation. “You wouldn’t believe how many times throughout the day, or when I’m thinking about a project, I’ve got my tutors’ words stuck in my brain,” he says. “CSM’s big secret is taking a bunch of weirdos, putting them all together, shaking them up a bit and waiting for what comes out from that shaker. They basically elevate your own potential and guide you throughout your journey.”

That guided freedom to explore his limits, together with the emphasis on self-expression and independence, are what Delogu valued the most. “CSM taught me how to be independent and a thinker. You have to be your own manager.” However, if it was up to him to make some changes, he would invest more funding into pattern-cutting sessions and business lectures. Despite fashion being a 1.5 trillion dollar industry, there is a generalized lack of business lessons in fashion education. “You’re completely left on your own. I wouldn’t know how to start a brand and I don’t have the funds to pay someone who has the expertise.”

“It was very difficult for me to get a place to stay and I was scammed twice, so I was super broke. After the scholarship, everything worked out just fine.” – Ivan Delogu

Fashion education is generally very expensive. Apart from extortionary tuition fees, at least in the UK, students need to pay for tools, fabrics and any other materials they may need. That is why scholarships become essential for those who would not be able to keep pushing their creativity otherwise. “The LVMH scholarship was vital,” says the designer, who would have had to leave Central Saint Martins had he not been granted it. “It was very difficult for me to get a place to stay and I was scammed twice, so I was super broke. After the scholarship, everything worked out just fine.”

At the time of this interview, Delogu was still dubious about his near future. “I feel scared, I’m not gonna lie. I feel very scared. I am focusing on trying to get as many interviews as possible to find a job.” But his next steps have now cleared up – thanks to the Sarabande Foundation Scholarship he has been granted, the designer has been able to join this year’s MA Fashion class at CSM. This allows him to stay in the UK for longer and gives him a chance to keep working on his art and developing his designs.

Simultaneously, the Sardinian designer is on the lookout for a job. But he won’t accept anything that makes him feel trapped in The Devil Wears Prada. “It’s actually surprising that such a creative industry can sometimes be so not inclusive, but I hope in a few years’ time, there will be a fashion revolution. Otherwise, I wouldn’t be doing what I do.” What the future holds for him remains uncertain, but Ivan Delogu is not willing to give up. “I just need to go out there and try new things.”