09April2015
ANNA SUI RECENTLY GAVE A TALK AT CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS; WE CAUGHT HER AFTERWARDS AND FOUND OUT ABOUT HER TIME AT FASHION SCHOOL, HER DEFIANCE TO ANNA WINTOUR AND HER LONGSTANDING FRIENDSHIP WITH STEVEN MEISEL

Growing up in the suburbs of impoverished Detroit, Sui moved to New York at an early age to pursue fashion at Parsons. With her BFF and partner in crime, photographer Steven Meisel, she conquered New York in its golden age, chasing her heroes like Andy Warhol at iconic NYC night life venues like the Mudd Club; eventually setting up business and gaining immense success with her playful celebration of the feminine through all historical eras. Today, the charismatic designer oversees an empire of fashion, fragrances and cosmetics, selling in over 50 countries with no signs of slowing – but exactly how does one get there, and what does business mean in fashion design? We caught Anna while in London to give a talk at CSM.  “I spent 10 years building my business without doing a fashion show.” How was your time at fashion school? I wasn’t a great student. It

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08April2015
JOERI VAN CAMPENHOUT, MA FASHION STUDENT AT THE ROYAL ACADEMY OF ART ANTWERP, TALKS WITH US ABOUT BRICOLAGE, MODERN PUNK, AND THE DISAPPEARANCE OF YOUTH CULTURE.

At the moment, Joeri van Campenhout is finishing his MA Fashion degree at the Royal Academy of Art Antwerp under the tutelage of Walter van Beirendonck. But, he’s already got some notable successes in his short career as a designer. For his BA graduate collection last year, he received both the ASAP Print Services award for ‘the most photogenic collection’, as well as the Louis award for ‘the most remarkable student of the third year’, which meant that his garments were presented in the windows of the avant-garde designer store Louis, founded by Geert Bruloot, who’s been instrumental in the success of the Antwerp Six. Joeri talks with us about bricolage, modern punk, and the disappearance of youth culture. How do you achieve enlightenment as a designer?  All my work comes from a gut feeling I get when thinking about a new project. It is hard to describe, because I don’t

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05April2015
THE PREVIOUS HEAD OF THE FASHION DEPARTMENT AT THE ROYAL ACADEMY OF ART ANTWERP NOW HELMS THE FLORENCE-BASED SCHOOL POLIMODA. SHE SPEAKS WITH US ABOUT 45 YEARS IN THE BUSINESS; THE FLAWS OF THE INDUSTRY, THE LACK OF NEWNESS ON THE RUNWAYS, AND THE IMPORTANCE OF LONG-TERM VISION FOR YOUNG DESIGNERS

“I am a builder of bridges.” In one of the previous interviews in this series, 1 Granary spoke with Westminster’s fashion course director, Andrew Groves, about the fact that the late Louise Wilson’s influence seems to have been far greater on those who have become tutors, as opposed to her reputed influence on fashion designers. When we ran into Linda Loppa at the LVMH Prize cocktail reception in March, it was an opportune moment to investigate her impact on those whom she’s taught. She was the head of the Royal Academy of Art’s fashion department in Antwerp for 25 years before being appointed as dean of the Polimoda International Institute of Fashion Design & Marketing in Florence in 2008. She gave the reigns to Walter van Beirendonck, whom many believe has been taught by Loppa (as he was part of the Antwerp Six), but less is true. “History can be

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ALICE JACOBS, FINE ART STUDENT AT CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS, TALKS ABOUT CRAZY RESIDENCIES IN POLAND, THE COURAGE OF ADMITTING ONE IS AN ARTIST, THE MONEY STRUGGLES AND LACK OF FINANCIAL SUPPORT, AND HOW ART WAS NEVER MEANT TO BE AN INDUSTRY

Who knew the Fine Art course has four different pathways? There’s XD, 4D, 2D and 3D. We met a final year student, Alice Jacobs, who studies 3D, which is sculpture. But then again, most people don’t actually do just sculpture, she tells us. “It’s very broad.” Do they do two pathway at the same time, then? “No they are still in our class, but their practice is different. It just depends on how they develop. Some people actually do painting in sculpture. Very confusing. I don’t really get it myself.”  Alice originally applied to the 3D architecture at Central Saint Martins. Explaining the transition from architecture to sculpture, she says, “I think I was in denial at that point, because it takes quite some dedication to say, “I’m going to be an artist.” It’s scary! I didn’t apply to be in art class, but they moved me in there. They were like

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27January2015
THE ONLY WAY TO GET ANYWHERE IS FOR YOUR WORK TO GET YOU THERE -- WE SPEAK WITH ROBERT STOREY ABOUT INSTAGRAMMABLE SET DESIGN, THE BLACK LAVA FLOORS AT CHRISTOPHER KANE, AND CLIMBING CAMBODIAN RUINS.

Robert Storey would rather not call himself a set designer. Yet, he is. He studied sculpture at Central Saint Martins (and graduated in 2008), but felt too limited and bogged down by worries of having to be ‘too conceptual’. Robert says that there was a wave at university where he felt that he had to prove that he was saying something, while he wanted people to enjoy looking at it. So, he veered into set design. We visited his Dalston studio to talk about space and beyond.

“I think you have to prove there is some kind of research and depth to what you are saying. I don’t think it would work well if you went into a crit and said, “well, I just made this because I like the way it looks”. Personally, if I was a tutor and someone said, “I love the way it looks, it makes me so happy to look at it”. I’d kind of be like, “well, why not?”

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21January2015
THE DESIGNER WHO SHOWED HIS FIRST COLLECTION AFTER CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS MA MENSWEAR, TALKS ABOUT SETTING UP HIS OWN BUSINESS, THE PRESSURE AND THE CREATIVE PROCESS.

During London Collections: Men, the support for recent Central Saint Martins graduates continued: just as Fashion East took on Grace Wales Bonner directly after her BA collection, so did their initiative ‘MAN’, with CSM’s MA menswear graduate Rory Parnell-Mooney. For his first season after graduating, he showed alongside Nicomede Talavera and Liam Hodges, and continued to explore his past collection’s point of view, but with a new outlook. Boys walked the runway with slick hair, wearing floating black- and navy garments, to the sound of Nirvana’s ‘Breed’.

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Craig Green is showing his FW15 collection today! To celebrate this, we wanted to share an extract from our second issue with you: a feature written by Tian Wei Zhang, and a shoot by Kirill Kuletski and Olya Kuryshchuk.

Craig Green is showing his FW15 collection today! To celebrate this, we wanted to share an extract from our second issue with you: a feature written by Tian Wei Zhang, and a shoot by Kirill Kuletski and Olya Kuryshchuk. Related Craig Green In Conversation with a Designer Tony Green EDWIN MOHNEY- He’s the shit. So take a wiff. Aquatic Fanatic! Fashion Scout selects Central Saint Martins BA graduate Cassandra Verity Green as ‘One to Watch’ Magazine Ivan Curia Nunes

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