1 Granary Magazine - Issue 3

Dazzling in an Age of Austerity

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1 Granary 3 is out, economically priced at 0.07% of a 1—year BA course to match tripled tuition fees — get a copy today, receive it quicker than a degree

Less focus on the feminine, more on Japanese school uniforms, three piece suits and classic working class looks.

Genderless: fashion’s new buzzword. From Alessandro Michele’s pussybow anointed debut at Gucci, to boundary pushing unisex brands Hood by Air and Yeezy, and Selfridges’ recent Agender pop-up shop, traditional binaries that were once so clear cut in the industry have been thoroughly blurred. In 2016, to identify with just one camp seems a little uncool. This is a zeitgeist that menswear designer Chin has thrived in. His debut collection, all florals, oversized sleeves and draping silhouettes, unabashedly cited womenswear, owing to his BA in the subject from Taiwan. The brand’s SS16 follow-up pushed this further, where sheer materials, exposed skin and brilliant placement of buckles evoked what’s been called, “a subtle kind of fetishism.” What did we expect from the Central Saint Martins graduate’s Fall offering? Well, much of the same. His formula seemed to be working. Yet with the collection in front, it’s difficult to not look quite hard

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03February2016
Bringing together the strongest tribe of emerging fashion talent.

In most occasions, calling any trio of creatives ‘three musketeers’ becomes banal, yet Jenné Lombardo, Keith Baptista and Mazdack Rassi can aptly be called so; having slashed their way through a rather stagnant and unsupportive fashion landscape in New York. The founders of MADE pioneered through hosting free presentations and fashion shows for young designers in Milk Studios, ever since 2009. It felt like there was a good opportunity to do something new, they say, as the industry became too calculated. “If you want different results, you have to do things differently, that’s just the fundamentals of life,” Jenne reflects. In the beginning, their radically different approach to show the work of several designers at the same time roused critical feedback from many industry figures, who argued that it was “against the rules.” MADE soon became a breeding ground for talents like Joseph Altuzarra, Suno and Public School, many of

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29January2016
“Sometimes, the most challenging part gets overlooked.”

With a BFA degree in Fashion Design from Shih Chien University in Taiwan and a MFA degree in Fashion Design and Society from Parsons, Shihhsun Lee combines transnational training with couture technique. This, along with his deep appreciation for bespoke tailoring, has given him a unique style and vision. Striving to revive bespoke tailoring, the recent Parsons MFA graduate is adept at creating handmade custom suits with a sophisticated use of fabrics and has translated this into his graduate collection. He sat down with us to discuss how his passion for bespoke tailoring developed, his obsession to create perfectly fitted customized clothing, and why he doesn’t really care about commercial success. What words would you use to describe your design vision? Understated, clean, accuracy. Does this particular vision stem from your passion for bespoke tailoring? Yes, those words also represent the aesthetic of my graduate collection. A bespoke suit is

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Taking a cue from Marcel Duchamp, the designer refashions simple everyday objects.

Ryohei Kawanishi graduated from Parsons’ MFA Fashion Design course with his Spring 2016 collection. The clever, witty show saw a dramatic change in silhouette from his BA graduate collection at Central St Martins, yet was still inherently rooted in his penchant for socio-political statements through design. Kawanishi’s graduate collection from Parsons, where he was a scholarship student, featured everyday objects such as the shower curtain, the bath mat and the backpack refashioned into wearable items of dress that quite literally cloaks us in our consumerism. It was a comment on fast fashion and consumer culture that was arguably beyond the literal, though lightheartedly comic in its treatment. The collection was titled ‘The Bride Stripped Bare by Her Bachelors, Even’, the same name as the Marcel Duchamp work that Kawanishi drew his initial inspiration from, after seeing the piece in person at the Philadelphia Museum of Art. The original work features

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26January2016
Exploring the digital culture that connects the work of recent Central Saint Martins Fine Art graduates

Last week, news broke that Amalia Ulman, who graduated from Central Saint Martins BA Fine Art in 2014, would be included in Tate Modern’s upcoming show Performing for the Camera, an exhibition that explores the relationship between photography and performance. Yves Klein and Yayoi Kusama are included, as are artists like Francesca Woodman and Marcel Duchamp. Amalia’s most noteworthy work existed on Instagram, where through crafting a persona and her narrative, she created a piece of performance art that is characteristic of our digital era. Whoever said that Instagram cannot be a valid art output? Instagram’s CEO, Mike Krieger, mentioned in an interview with Hans Ulrich-Obrist for 032c that he sees the sphere as ever expanding for emerging talent, and how it opens up a different (either ‘real’ intimate or ‘fake’ intimate as with the Ulman case) area for being personable and bringing context to your work. “I’m very interested

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22January2016
From guerrilla exhibitions to harsh words to David Cameron, Fashion East designer Richard Malone is both talented and opinionated — and he’s not putting up with any of it.

*This interview originally appeared in 1 Granary Issue 3 The current fashion system often puts pressure on students to think about their ‘future careers’ at the time when they are meant to be exploring and experimenting as much as they can in the timespan of their studies. With the recent news that maintenance grants will be turned into loans, the government is not really helping to improve the situation and give some breathing space for fresh talent. However, instead of abiding to the system and fulfilling certain expectations of how one should ‘act in the market’, a new establishment is resisting and expressing their points of view in rebellious ways. Richard Malone is one of them. Graduating from Central Saint Martins’ BA Fashion in 2014, he was awarded the LVMH Grand Prix scholarship for his collection, after which a London-based support scheme offered him a place to show his work

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4 emerging menswear designers give advice for imminent graduates wanting to start a fashion brand.

CHARLES JEFFREY Clad in a beret and a grey pin-stripe suit with a Johnny Rotten t-shirt underneath, Charles (who founded club night Loverboy) manifested his talent in multi-tasking between responding to a journalist whilst blowing kisses and waving goodbye to friends of his. What role does Loverboy play in informing your work? Well, Loverboy is a laboratory for the work. The artwork that we do for it kind of informs the prints, the colours; the people who exist in that space are essentially my primary research. The previous collections have all been photographed by ourselves: the clothes, how we wear it… All those small quirks are things that we end up applying onto the garments afterwards. Were there any challenges you had leading up to the show? The obvious ones are things like existing in London and trying to be creative. Actually, I find this collection a bit more of

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20January2016
Meet the Royal College of Art MA Womenswear student who distorts and reconstructs existing notions around mass-production and industrial design; as a means of empowering the wearer and creating new levels of femininity.

Ever dreamed of being transported to a new realm, planet or even just a place in your mind? Timothy has, and continually manifests these imaginations through his experimental and fantastical designs. The womenswear student has a penchant for flying and envisioning worlds beyond our present human earth, but is simultaneously adamant that we must try — as a fashion industry — to actively fix the current exploitation of our planet. Obsessed with taking objects apart, repurposing waste and finding fashionable ways around mechanics, we find out what Tim is working on for his graduate collection, which will hit the runway in only a few months time.

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