“I ALWAYS ASK MYSELF, WOULD YOU WEAR THIS AND IF NOT, WHY ARE YOU DESIGNING IT?”
I remember when we worked in your home studio, l’d bring you lots of art books you asked for from LCC (because they have a richer library) and you’d cook me some duck pancakes and we would crack on with textile development over a good chat. Is it all different now? What has changed since the MA days? How has your process changed, and how do your ideas develop now?
[Laughs] You know me! I love a good chat, that hasn’t changed and the process has stayed with me. I feel, in time, it’s natural to be curious with your own aesthetic and there was a real learning process of research and development and fantasising about the possibilities. I will continue to use what I’ve learnt from the course and especially Louise Wilson, but since I started doing consecutive collections my ideas usually stem from the last collection. Half way through designing and making I’d instinctively get interested in something and that would stay with me as a new starting point. For example, with SS15 – the gingham collection, the season before I was sitting at a café and the tabletop was gingham and I loved it and it got me thinking in that direction. Usually I’d have four or five options of how it can go and then I start thinking in terms of fabric. I believe fabric is more important than anything, especially in menswear – it defines fit and feeling.