Sofia Ilmonen is one of the HYÈRES Festival winners of 2021

It is so nice to see a sustainable design practice that doesn’t scream sustainable. It normalises it. When did you start approaching fashion sustainably? What does sustainability mean to your practice?

The clothing industry is arguably one of the largest polluting industries in the world so, as a fashion designer, I feel that it is my duty to rethink the practices used. Therefore sustainability has long been the driving force for my designs. Before I collected more on sustainable/eco-friendly materials but for this collection, I wanted to approach sustainability more holistically. One essential thought at the beginning of the process was how the concept of sustainable fashion can be seen as contradictory. Fashion is about change and sustainability is about longevity and stability. Therefore, the motivation for the modular & transformable concepts was to offer a more sustainable alternative to meet the changing needs and tastes of the wearer over time with less materialistic means.

I believe that the future of fashion lies in systematic change, where strategic innovations create opportunities to develop completely new sustainable ways of doing business. In practice, the modular clothing concept could operate through a product-service system, where the collections are created using the same module format and the customers could have their existing module garment changed into a new season style through the service. This would aid the change towards a more circular economy from the predominant linear cycle in fashion.

“I would not want to box my design to fit only to a certain group of people but that they are for anyone who loves ruffles, frills, voluminous skirts, and feminine silhouettes.”  – Sofia Ilmonen

You design womenswear; can you tell us more about your approach to the womenswear practice?

I’m drawn to designing womenswear as that is what I have studied and felt the most natural to me. However, I would not want to box my design to fit only to a certain group of people but that they are for anyone who loves ruffles, frills, voluminous skirts, and feminine silhouettes. So I guess I could say that my style is ultra-feminine which is highlighted with the colour choices. The colours also embody the positive energy and optimism that I want to express with the brand.

Your work is really textile-based and intricate, where does your design journey start? 

The textile structure works both as a detail and function. The button and loop structure allows the square modules to be attached together and the drawstring channels allow the modules to be gathered for shaping. The operating base of the module concept also creates beautiful textures and details. The development of the texture and silhouette went hand-in-hand.

“From a sustainability perspective, adjustable sizing can have many benefits as size-related issues are one of the main reasons for garment disposal.” – Sofia Ilmonen

Body positivity and diversity are also present in your work. Do you have a woman in mind when you design?

The women I design for are going after their goals, but they are doing it with kindness towards themselves and others. I like to call it soft confidence. Due to the square module form and the function of “gathering” the garments to fit, the clothes can fit so many different body shapes and types, which I think is pretty amazing! We are all different so being able to highlight the unique beauty of each individual feels special.

From a sustainability perspective, adjustable sizing can have many benefits as size-related issues are one of the main reasons for garment disposal.

For someone who would like to apply for this award, do you have any advice? Can you talk us through the experience?

The experience to be chosen as one of the finalists of the 36th Hyeres Fashion Festival has been amazing and also intensive. From the moment of getting chosen as a finalist to the actual final, a lot has happened. For the Mercedes-Benz award, we received mentoring from Fashion Open Studio, which had the top professionals on sustainable fashion on board. This opportunity was amazing and eye-opening and it was so refreshing to have an honest open conversation about sustainable fashion. My advice would be to keep an open mind and listen carefully. On the other hand, I would want to encourage everyone to experiment without fearing the mistakes as those errors might lead to the grand idea as it did in my case!

“I have dreamt about my own brand since I was a little girl so I am planning to launch my label at the beginning of 2022 and this is where the award will help me a lot.” – Sofia Ilmonen

You really tick all the boxes progressively! How is the prize going to help you build your practice further?  How are you planning to invest the 20,000 euros you have been awarded? What are your hopes for the future?

I have dreamt about my own brand since I was a little girl so I am planning to launch my label at the beginning of 2022 and this is where the award will help me a lot. It’s not only the award money but also the mentoring and encouragement that will help to build my practice further. My plan is to stay in the modular world and develop and refine the concept even further. The next collection is going to be created using the same square modules but used in a completely new way creating a new story. This prospect of the concept excites me!

“In Finland the fashion industry is small and you have to be really proactive to find the right solution to operate your business.” – Sofia Ilmonen

How are you finding Finland as a base for your creative practice in comparison to London?

In London, you are in the heart of fashion and there is a whole system & infrastructure for fashion business to operate. In Finland the fashion industry is small and you have to be really proactive to find the right solution to operate your business. However, here I have another kind of support systems like my family and friends and such cliches like nature, summer cottage, and sauna! These things inspire me a lot as well and give back energy for my creative practice.